Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
Sometimes our road led us close to the river’s banks, at others
almost under the cliffs that rise to the level of the plain. The
water in the river is clear, and of a brilliant blue colour. Fish
abound; but although the natives speak of three varieties, I was
able to see only one—the barbel. Nor do they keep to the main
stream; for the canals, even where only a few feet wide, often
contain large shoals of them.
At a large _ksar_, with frowning towers and battlements, the very
picture of the dwelling of a Berber chief, we stopped for the
night. Our host met us at the gate and welcomed us, taking our
donkeys to a stable, where barley was given them to eat, and then
leading us within. We ascended innumerable steps until a small
suite of rooms, opening on to a piece of flat roof, was reached;
here we were installed. It was a charming spot, for far more care
and art had been expended upon the building than in any other _ksar_
we had seen; and the walls were clean with whitewash, while the
ceiling consisted of a layer of canes, stained red and black,
in strange designs, the whole supported on neatly cut beams of
unpolished walnut wood. A few rough rugs lay strewn over the floor,
and a semblance of comfort was given to the place by some shelves
containing a teapot, some bright little cups and saucers, and a
brass tray and kettle. Food was soon brought us, the usual _kuskusu_
and boiled turnips, with the extra luxury of a chicken—no small
honour in these parts—then tea and dates.
The view from the flat roof on to which the window of the room opened
was a very charming one. The vegetation in Aït Iunir is far better
than that of the lower districts, and big trees, especially cherry,
pear, and walnut, abound. From the summits of the trees rose the
surrounding _ksor_, one and all crowned with towers, and of very
considerable size. The house in which we were must have covered a
couple of acres of land. Yet even here were apparent the signs of
the constant state of warfare in which the people of Dads exist,
for the walls of the _minzah_ were perforated with bullet-holes,
shots from the next-door neighbour, whose castle stood only a couple
of hundred yards away. It was on this account, that the feud was
still proceeding, that our host made us sit down under the parapet
of the wall to eat our meal, lest our appearance might bring down
upon us a volley from the people over the way.
In this house I again noticed what I had already seen at the Zauia
Aït bu Haddu—namely, the manner in which bees are hived amongst
the Berbers. A hollow space is left in the wall of the house, opening
into a cupboard within, from which the honey can be removed. A
small hole, often only a hollow cane, on the outside of the wall,
allows a means of ingress and egress for the bees.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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