Dr. Pope lays emphasis on the word _flows_; it does not say _soak_.
There is, he contends, an instantaneous graciousness, a momentary
flavour that must be caught if we would rightly enjoy tea. Assuredly
Dr. Abernethy, the celebrated surgeon, must be credited with the
possession of this "instantaneous graciousness." "Abernethy," said
Dr. Carlyon, in his "Early Years and Late Reflections," "never drank
tea himself, but he frequently asked a few friends to come and
take tea at his rooms. Upon such occasions, as I infer from what I
myself witnessed, his custom was to walk about the room and talk
most agreeably upon such topics as he thought likely to interest his
company, which did not often consist of more than two or three persons.
As soon as the tea-table was set in order, and the boiling water ready
for making the infusion, the fragrant herb was taken, not from an
ordinary tea-caddy, but from a packet consisting of several envelopes
curiously put together, in the centre of which was the tea. Of this
he used at first as much as would make a good cup for each of the
party; and to meet fresh demands I observed that he invariably put an
additional tea-spoonful into the teapot; the excellence of the beverage
thus prepared insuring him custom. He had likewise a singular knack of
supplying each cup with sugar from a considerable distance, by a jerk
of the hand, which discharged it from the sugar-tongs into the cup with
unerring certainty, as he continued his walk around the table, scarcely
seeming to stop whilst he performed these and the other requisite
evolutions of the entertainment."
If every woman had treated her guests in the same manner, there would
have been little outcry against tea. The innovation of a "bubbling and
loud-hissing urn" was strongly condemned by Dr. Sigmond, who, writing
in 1839, after quoting Cowper, remarked: "Thus sang one of our most
admired poets, who was feelingly alive to the charms of social life;
but, alas! for the domestic happiness of many of our family circles,
this meal has lost its character, and many of those innovations which
despotic fashion has introduced have changed one of the most agreeable
of our daily enjoyments. It is indeed a question amongst the devotees
to the tea-table, whether the bubbling urn has been practically an
improvement upon our habits; it has driven from us the old national
kettle, once the pride of the fireside. The urn may be fairly called
the offspring of indolence; it has deprived us, too, of many of those
felicitous opportunities of which the gallant forefathers of the
present race availed themselves to render them amiable in the eyes of
the fair sex, when presiding over the distribution
"Of the Soumblo, the Imperial tea,
Names not unknown, and sanative Bohea."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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