Among the most famous tea-houses is Twining's in the Strand. It
was founded, Mr. E. Walford says, "about the year 1710, by the
great-great-grandfather of the present partners, Mr. Thomas Twining,
whose portrait, painted by Hogarth, 'kitcat-size,' hangs in the back
parlour of the establishment. The house, or houses--for they really
are two, though made one practically by internal communication--stand
between the Strand and the east side of Devereux Court. The original
depôt for the sale of the then scarce and fashionable beverage, tea,
stood at the south-west angle of the present premises, on the site of
what had been 'Tom's Coffee-house,' directly opposite the 'Grecian.' A
peep into the old books of the firm shows that in the reign of Queen
Anne tea was sold by the few houses then in the trade at various prices
between twenty and thirty shillings per pound, and that ladies of
fashion used to flock to Messrs. Twining's house in Devereux Court, in
order to sip the enlivening beverage in their small China cups, for
which they paid their shillings, much as now-a-days they sit in their
carriages eating ices at the door of Gunter's in Berkeley Square on hot
days. The bank was gradually engrafted on the old business, after it
had been carried on for more than a century from sire to son, and may
be said as a separate institution to date from the commercial panic of
1825."
Although tea was extensively used in London and some of the principal
cities, it did not become popular in country houses. "For instance, at
Whitby," writes the historian of that town, "tea was very little used
a century ago, most of the old men being very much against it; but
after the death of the old people it soon came into general use." Old
habits die hard. The stronger beverage of English ale had been so long
in use that the old folks could not be induced to relinquish it for a
foreign herb. A striking instance of the force of habit is related by
Dr. Aikin, in his history of Manchester (1795). "About 1720," he says,
"there were not above three or four carriages kept in the town. One of
these belonged to Madame ----, in Salford. This respectable old lady
was of a social disposition, and could not bring herself to conform
to the new-fashioned beverage of tea and coffee; whenever, therefore,
she made her afternoon's visit, her friends presented her with a
tankard of ale and a pipe of tobacco. A little before this period a
country gentleman had married the daughter of a citizen of London;
she had been used to tea, and in compliment to her it was introduced
by some of her neighbours; but the usual afternoon's entertainment at
gentlemen's houses at that time was wet and dry sweetmeats, different
sorts of cake, and gingerbread, apples, or other fruits of the season,
and a variety of home-made wines." At that time it was the custom for
the apprentices to live with their employers, whose fare was far from
liberal; but "somewhat before 1760," remarks Dr. Aikin, "a considerable
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account