There are three regular pickings in the course of a year. The first
known as the _Shon-cheun_ or “Early spring,” occurring about the middle
of April or beginning of May, according to the district, the product of
which is termed _Taou-cha_ or “head tea,” a very superior kind,
consisting of the youngest, tenderest, and most delicate leaves and
leaf-buds just expanding. The quantity obtained from this picking is
limited in quantity but simply superb in quality, the very finest teas
known to commerce, being prepared from them. The leaves are selected
with the greatest care and picked with the utmost caution, such pains
being taken to insure its excellence that for weeks before the harvest
commences, the packers, who have been previously trained are prohibited
from eating fish or other food considered unclean, lest by their breath
they should contaminate the leaves, being also compelled to bathe two or
three times daily in the picking season, as well as wear gloves during
the operation.
The second picking, called _Er-chuen_ or “Second spring,” takes place
between the end of May and beginning of June, when the branches are
literally covered with leaves, and yielding what is known in China as
_Tzu-cha_ or “filial tea,” from the fact of its producing the largest
quantity, constituting the most important crop of the season and forming
the principal one exported, but being greatly inferior to the first in
point of quality.
The _San-chuen_, or “third crop,” is gathered in July when the shrubs
are searched for leaves, and the product converted into what is termed
_Wu-kua-cha_ or “tea without aroma,” and though still more inferior to
the preceding ones in quality and quantity, is nevertheless an important
one commercially, forming the bulk of that exported as well as for
blending with and reducing the cost of the preceding crop. A few leaves
of the first picking will support five successive immersions, yielding
five cups of moderately strong tea; the second supplying only two and
the third but one of the same strength to a like quantity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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