=Ankoi-Oolongs=—Are a doubtful species of the genus tea, said to be
prepared from the leaves of a shrub closely resembling yet widely
distinct in structure and character from those of the true plant, found
growing in a wild state on the range of mountains known as the Anke
hills, separating the district of Amoy from Foochow. The leaf, in a
dried state, is rough, coarse and reddish-brown in color, poorly curled
and ragged in general appearance. In the infusion it is dark-brown,
large and irregular in form, notably dissimilar from that of a genuine
tea-leaf in all respects, while the liquor is dark-red, oily or
“earthy,” and bitterly astringent to the taste, qualities contracted
from the presence of oxides in the soil in which they grow.
Intrinsically, this variety possesses no value really as tea, bearing
the same relation to Oolongs that Pingsueys do to Green teas, and
although known to the Chinese as “Bastard tea,” it is extensively used
by them in the reduction of Amoys, to which it imparts a wild, rank or
weedy flavor readily detected in the cup.
=Padrae-Oolong=—Is a scarce sort prepared in the Bohea district from a
species that is unsuited for conversion into plain Oolong. The leaf is
long, black, flattish, but finely made, after the manner of a Souchong,
and closely approximating to the latter in color, liquor and flavor.
They are chiefly exported to the Russian market, where they are much
esteemed for their unique but superb drinking qualities.
=Pekoe-Oolongs=—Are what is known to trade as a “Made tea,” that is,
prepared from leaves which, from their nature or quality, cannot be
converted into an Oolong or Green tea, or from leaves spoiled by
imperfect fermentation, smoke or fire in curing, flavored or scented
with Pekoe in order to disguise or conceal their defects. The dried leaf
is generally long, flat and very black, being over-fired, while the
liquor is dark-wine color, sharp, pungent, but burnt to the taste, and
approaching to that of Tienke green in flavor.
=Saryune=—Is a bold, dark-leaved variety, rather loosely made and
curled. The liquor is heavy, dark, rich and pungent, brisk, but somewhat
burnt in flavor, the result of too high firing. The infused leaf is
medium in size, regular in form, dark-brown in color, with darker edges,
approximating to that of a Congou leaf in color and style.
CONGOU, SOUCHONG AND SCENTED TEAS,
known to trade in this country as “English Breakfast teas,” from having
at one time formed the staple shipment to that country, are produced in
the province of Kiang-see, and are a distinct variety, differing in
color, liquor and flavor from the Oolong sorts. They are cultivated
chiefly on the _Bou-iu_ (Bohea) mountains, in the district of
Woo-e-shan, which, though very sterile in some parts, are literally
covered with tea plantations. More of these varieties are produced than
of all others combined, the product of the Pa-ta-shan range being
classed among the finest grown.
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