Tea; Tea -- History; Tea -- Social aspects; Tea trade -- History
In making an Oolong Black tea, which occupies an intermediate
position between Green tea and Black Souchongs and Congous, the
leaves are first exposed to the action of the air for a
considerable time, and in many cases, to the sun also. An
incipient fermentation may take place, although this is denied by
some. There is certainly a chemical change beyond the brief
preliminary drying of Green tea. During this period the leaves
(in China) are stirred and tossed by the hands. The effect, if
not the object, is to expose greater surfaces to the air, and to
increase oxidation. It is during this operation that the leaves
first begin to manifest characteristics of manufactured tea, in
the way of a fragrant tea odor which the green leaf did not
possess. The development of sweet odors in new hay, quite
different from those of green grass, and also the artificial
development of flavor in tobacco leaves, may be recalled in this
connection. This prolonged exposure to the air is termed
"withering," and the leaves become soft and flaccid, as they do
in the first artificial heating for Green tea. In withering, the
leaves lose about one quarter of their weight in moisture. The
leaves must not be bruised before the termination of this
treatment, or injurious chemical changes will begin.
The second operation with Black tea is the same rolling into
balls, twisting and squeezing, as in Green tea. Mr. Crole says
that the sap of the leaf thus liberated from its cells "is
spread all over the surface of the rolled leaf, where it is in a
very favorable position for the oxygen of the atmosphere to act
upon it during the next stage of manufacture, namely,
fermentation." Fermentation, he regards as an oxidation process
mainly.
For the "fermentation" stage, if that controverted term correctly
designates the process, the rolls are either left undisturbed to
heat, or, as in Indian methods, the rolls are broken up, and the
leaves distributed in drawers, with free access of air. In either
case, a spontaneous heating follows, and chemical action is
indicated by a change of color which reddens and darkens the
leaf, and by the evolution of further pleasant "tea" odors. Some
of the tannin is said to be converted into glucose.
Care must be taken, Mr. Crole says, to arrest fermentation at the
proper stage by the first "firing," and this firing expels about
half of the remaining moisture of the withered leaves, and
probably develops an additional portion of those volatile oils
which give fragrance and taste to manufactured tea; and which Mr.
Crole designates by the name of "theol." Too high or too long
continued firing drives off these oils with the watery juices.
They are also wasted by exposure of manufactured tea to the
atmosphere. Firing is sometimes divided into two or three stages.
In the above summary we have described all essential treatment of
tea leaves necessary to produce manufactured tea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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