I think if I were the Portuguese I would prefer none at all to such as
these.... And, then, the suppression of the military budget would
perhaps enable them to pay their dividends. In the afternoon we embark a
band of Englishmen coming from Rhodesia to enlist as volunteers at
Durban and Cape Town. They invade the saloon with their friends, and
sing ’God save the Queen.’ Some of the Frenchmen present retort with
the Marseillaise; the situation becomes strained, fists are clenched,
and finally a certain number of blows are exchanged. We have on board a
grandson of President Kruger’s, whose home is in Holland. After having
been arrested once, conducted to Durban and sent back to Europe, he is
making a second attempt to enter his country. Thanks to a strict
incognito, only laid aside for two of us, he succeeds in his design.
At night we arrive off Lourenço Marques, where, without let or
hindrance, we disembark on January 21.
We order a bottle of Moët in the saloon to drink the health of Captain
B----, whom we are leaving, and against whom we are going to fight
presently.
’Your good health,’ he says, ’and I trust we shan’t meet later on!’
We part with a hearty shake of the hand. At the Custom-house we easily
get our artistically-concealed revolvers through, but the Customs
officers fall upon the uniforms, arms and harness belonging to Colonel
Gourko. They decline to pass anything, in spite of all explanations.
The Colonel is obliged to go and fetch the Russian Consul and the
Governor. We take up our quarters at the Hotel Continental, which, we
are told, is the best. Five of us are packed into one small room on
improvised beds, where we are devoured by mosquitoes ... and this costs
fourteen shillings a day!
Colonel Gourko, having recovered his baggage, joins us there, and, in
his turn, invites us to dinner. He does things in a princely fashion,
and the bill must have been one that Paillard himself would have
hesitated to present.
All sorts of obstacles are invented to prevent our departure. Firstly,
of course, our passports have to be _visé_, but before this can be done
we have to get stamps, which are only to be had at the opposite end of
the town; we have, further, to produce a certificate of good conduct
(having only arrived the night before!). Then more stamps, then a note
from the French Consul, then more stamps; and the office where you get
the signature or the paper is never the same as the one that sells the
stamps.
At last all formalities have been carried out. Our pockets are bulging
with some dozen papers covered with innumerable signatures and a shower
of stamps. Cost: over 50 francs--10,850 reïs!
We go to the station at seven o’clock the following morning. There are
a great many police officers on duty. By the Governor’s orders no one
is to be allowed to start for the Transvaal with the exception of the
Russian ambulance. We all exclaim shrilly, and hurry off to the Consul.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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