The Fortymile is a very picturesque but most tortuous river. In one
place, called appropriately "The Kink," I was able to clamber over a
ridge of rocks and reach another bend of the river in six or seven
minutes, and then had to wait twenty-five minutes for the dog team,
going at a good clip, to come around to me. At length we reached the
spot where a vista cut through the timber that clothes both banks,
marked the 141st meridian, the international boundary, and passed out of
Alaska into British territory. A few miles more brought us to Moose
Creek, where a little Canadian custom-house is situated, and there we
spent the night.
The next day we reached the Yukon; passing gold dredges laid up for the
winter and other signs of still-persisting mining activity, going
through the narrow wild cañon of the Fortymile, and so to the little
town at its mouth of the same name, where there is a mission of the
Church of England and a post of the Royal Northwest Mounted Police. I
never come into contact with this admirable body of men without wishing
that we had a similar body charged with the enforcement of the law in
Alaska.
Sunday was spent there officiating for the layman in charge of the
mission and in interesting talk with the sergeant of police about the
annual winter journey from Dawson to Fort McPherson on the McKenzie,
from which he had just returned with a detail of men. The next winter he
and his detail lost their way and starved and froze to death on the same
journey.
Here at one time was a flourishing Indian mission and school, and here
Bishop Bompas, the true "Apostle of the North," lived for some time. The
story of this man's forty-five years' single-eyed devotion to the
Indians of the Yukon and McKenzie Rivers is one of the brave chapters of
missionary history. But the Church of England "does not advertise."
Writers about Alaska, even writers about Alaskan missions, carefully
collect all the data of the early Russian missions on the coast, but
ignore altogether the equally influential and lasting work done along
five hundred miles of what is now the American Yukon by the missionary
clergy of the English Church before and after the Purchase. Bishop
Bompas identified himself so closely with the natives as to become
almost one of them in the eyes of the white men, and many curious
stories linger amongst the old-timers as to his habits and appearance.
It is interesting to know that the bishop was a son of that Sergeant
Bompas of the English bar from whom Dickens drew the character of
Sergeant Buzfuz, counsel for the plaintiff in the famous suit of
"Bardell v. Pickwick."
But the natives have all left Fortymile, some to the large village of
Moosehide just below Dawson, some to Eagle. The town, too, like all the
upper Yukon towns, is much decayed; the custom-house, the police
barracks, the company's store, the road-house, and the little mission
embracing nearly all its activities and housing nearly all its
population.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account