There is always some feeling of satisfaction in reaching the broad
highway of the Yukon again, even though rough ice make bad going and one
of the most notorious, dirty road-houses in the North hold its menace
over one all day and amply fulfil it at night. There is indeed so little
travel on the river now that it does not pay any one to keep a
road-house save as incidental to a steamboat wood camp and summer
fishing station. Two short days' travel brought us across the
international boundary again to Eagle in Alaska, where at that time Fort
Egbert was garrisoned with two companies of soldiers.
[Sidenote: EAGLE]
Eagle and Fort Egbert together, for the one begins where the other ends,
have perhaps the finest and most commanding situation of any settlement
on the Yukon River. The mountains rise with dignity just across the
water and break pleasingly into the valley of Eagle Creek, a few miles
up-stream. To the rear of the town an inconsiderable flat does but give
space and setting before the mountains rise again; while just below the
military post stands the bold and lofty bluff called the Eagle Rock,
with Mission Creek winding into the Yukon at its foot. Robert Louis
Stevenson said that Edinburgh has the finest situation of any capital
in Europe and pays for it by having the worst climate of any city in the
world. It would not be just to paraphrase this description with regard
to Eagle, for while it is unsurpassed on the Yukon for site, there are
spots on that river where still more disagreeable weather prevails; yet
it cannot be denied that the position of the place subjects it to
exceedingly bitter winds, or that the valley of Eagle Creek, which gives
pleasing variety to the prospect, acts also as a channel to convey the
full force of the blast. Climate everywhere is a very local thing;
topographical considerations often altogether outweigh geographical; and
nowhere is this truer than in Alaska. Commanding sites are necessarily
exposed sites, and he who would dwell in comfort must build in
seclusion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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