X. FROM THE TANANA RIVER TO THE KUSKOKWIM--THENCE TO THE IDITAROD MINING CAMP--THENCE TO THE YUKON, AND UP THAT RIVER TO FORT YUKON 294 XI. THE NATIVES OF ALASKA 348 XII. PHOTOGRAPHY IN THE ARCTIC 371 XIII. THE NORTHERN LIGHTS 380 XIV. THE ALASKAN DOGS 392 INDEX 413 ILLUSTRATIONS Hudson Stuck (_photogravure_) _Frontispiece_ FACING PAGE Sunrise on the Chandalar-Koyukuk portage 36 Coldfoot on the Koyukuk 37 The upper Koyukuk 50 The barren shores of Kotzebue Sound 51 Gold-mining at Nome 122 Pulling the _Pelican_ out with a "Spanish windlass" 123 The start over the "first ice" 164 "Rough going" 165 Arthur and Doctor Burke 178 Saint John's-in-the-Wilderness, Allakaket, Koyukuk River 179 The double interpretation at the Allakaket 186 The wind-swept Yukon within the ramparts 187 A pleasant woodland trail 256 An Alaskan chief and his henchman 257 The Tanana crossing 270 Good going on the Yukon 271 "A portage that comes so finely down to the Yukon that there is pleasure in anticipating the view it affords" 290 Fort Yukon 291 The rough breaking in of Doctor Loomis, camped on the mail trail at 50° below zero, unable to reach a road-house for the deep snow 296 Esquimaux of the upper Kuskokwim 297 "The 'summit' is high above timber-line and the trail pursues a hogback ridge for a mile and a half at the summit level" 324 A street in Iditarod City 325 The end of the portage trail 334 Rough ice on the Yukon 335 A docile folk, eager for instruction 350 The mission type 351 Wild and shy 351 The native communicant 360