Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
The scene was a farce as far as justice was concerned, but the policy
which always appeared to me best was to insist only on imprisonment, and
to make sure this was actually enforced, leaving it to the authorities
to inflict some sort of monetary punishment, without my asking for
fines, well knowing that once in prison, a Syrian does not get out
without paying something to somebody. This line of conduct made us quite
popular with some governors, whose incomes were ridiculously small.
On Friday, the 23rd of May, we again marched south, and suffered even
more than in the last move. First of all, no camels could be got, until
the Sheikh of the village had been solemnly warned of the result of
disobeying the Sultan’s firman; then, all the long day through, a
scorching sirocco blew from the east, and the road was almost
impassable, across valleys a thousand feet deep, including the great
boundary of Kânah. The heat was even worse next day, the glass being
over 106° F. in the shade; at Gaza, the same day, it stood at 118°,
while in Beyrout most of the mulberry-trees were killed by the wind, and
the silk crop failed. On the third day, the Sunday, I was waked in the
afternoon by a churning noise, and saw a whirlwind coming rapidly
through the olive-grove towards the camp, tearing up the thorny plants,
the stubble, dust, and small stones, whilst all round a dead calm
prevailed. Fortunately, its path was to one side of the tents, and it
passed by without doing any damage. Next morning the fresh west wind
returned, and surveying became once more a possibility.
The country round us was some of the wildest in Palestine. The villagers
had never before seen a Frank, and on the maps it is almost a blank. The
hills were stony, but very fine groves of beautiful old olive-trees
existed all round the villages.
Here, on the 30th of May, I received an addition to the party, by the
arrival of Corporal Brophy, R.E.
Many fine ruins existed round us, showing that it is probably to the
agency of man, rather than to the gradual action of weather, that the
utter destruction of ruins in more accessible parts of Palestine is to
be ascribed.
A good instance of the valuable finds made by the Survey party in this
unknown district, is that of the ruin called Deir Serûr. Here we
discovered the site of an important town, with public buildings of good
masonry, and rock-cut tombs, evidently a place of great importance. This
conspicuous site is not marked on any modern map, nor described by any
previous traveller, so far as I have been able to find. On a map of the
last century, an episcopal town of the fifth century called Sosura, is,
however, shown in just the position of this ruin of Serûr, and the
character of the buildings seems to agree with this identification.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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