Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
The door, forty-two feet high in the clear, has huge jambs in three
courses, inside each of which a little staircase is hollowed out,
ascending to the roof. The cornice above the door is perhaps the richest
design of all; and, on the soffit, or under side, a great spread eagle
is flanked by winged genii and wreaths. A correct drawing of one niche
in Baalbek would take almost a day to do, and there are at least two
hundred such niches.
The Temple of Jupiter is surrounded by a cloister, comparatively
narrow--eight feet ten inches in the clear--its columns fifty-eight feet
high. The low-arched roof above is covered with colossal busts in high
relief, set in frames of rich design. The effect of height, obtained by
the very great disproportion in width, is more striking than even that
of the loftier Six Columns.
Nine pillars remain on the north side of the cloister, and the roof,
with its sculptured kings, queens, and warriors holding palm branches,
is intact; but the rich cornice is dropping piecemeal from above. On the
south only three pillars remain standing, and one great shaft leans
against the walls, its three stones still adhering firmly together.
The greatest marvel of Baalbek has, however, still to be noticed. The
western fortress-wall is intact, and consists of drafted stones fifteen
to twenty feet long; the third course from the ground is composed,
however, of three huge blocks, each more than sixty-three feet long. In
the quarry lies a fourth, sixty-eight feet long, thirteen feet eight
inches broad, fourteen feet high, along which three horsemen might ride
abreast; it is called the “pregnant stone,” from a legend which is also
found connected with the great column of the Huldah gate in the Temple.
Such are the main features of this mightiest temple ever built by Roman
genius. In size Baalbek dwarfs Palmyra, and equals it in richness of
workmanship. No doubt the superabundance of ornamentation is a mark of
decadence in art; but the magnificence of the proportions seems to allow
of any amount of tracery, without injury to the effect as a whole.
The sun was getting low as I sat sketching the Six Columns, which stood
out dark and desolate against the glowing sky. A stork stood on one leg
on the cornice; his mate was in a nest below. As I turned eastward, the
scene was yet grander. The Temple of Jupiter was in dark shadow, with a
foreground of tumbled columns, like fallen giants, sprawling over
crushed blocks and ruined cornices. The wall on which I sat was battered
in by the thud of one huge shaft tossed against it. Beyond the temple,
the rich tracery of the Moslem _mihrab_ on the south wall was visible;
and, behind this again, was the dark foliage of mulberries, poplars, and
willows, and the bare grey hills tipped with crimson from the setting
sun.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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