Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
It was indeed an impressive scene; the majesty of the Pagan, the pride
of the Moslem, superhuman power and inexhaustible fancy--all alike
things of the past; and beyond the puny works of man, the “everlasting
hills,” with the rose of evening on their summits, unchanged as they
stood long before the golden plates of the great temple had first caught
the dying beams, and as they may still glow evening after evening, long
after the huge columns have crumbled to dust. The stork stood on one
leg, and no doubt considered the matter; the stars came out one by one,
and unbroken stillness prevailed throughout the ruins.
On the 21st we rode back to Bludân, and on Monday, the 8th of September,
we again set out, this time in company with Mr. Kirby Green, on an
expedition to the summit of Hermon.
The first day’s ride was a long one. Pushing rapidly over the Zebdâny
plain, we reached, in three hours, the French road, and, crossing it,
ascended a long valley, bare and grey with cliffs and a few oak bushes.
We passed the famous temple called Deir-el-Ashaiyir, described by
Captain Warren, and then lost our way; but were at length directed by a
charcoal-burner--one of the very few natives whom we met--to the little
village of Rukhleh, on the steep barren slopes of Hermon. Here we were
joined by Mr. Wright and Sergeant Armstrong, from Damascus. We visited
the ruins and copied several inscriptions.
There are at Rukhleh two temples, one called “the King’s Castle;” there
is also a tower on a rocky knoll, and a Christian church built of the
fragments of the temples. In the church-wall is part of a lintel
representing an eagle, and a fine block with a head in bold relief,
surrounded by a circle ornamented with honeysuckle pattern; the head is
nearly five feet high.
In the afternoon we continued our ride along a rugged mountain path,
passing by Kefr Kûk, where are beautiful vineyards, and a plain, which
in winter becomes a lake, the water rushing out suddenly, with a roaring
noise, from a cavern, and flooding the whole area.
Passing by Aiha, where are remains of another temple, we hurried on to
the large town of Rashaiyeh, built about half-way up the side of Hermon,
and presenting a striking appearance, in the moonlight, with long slopes
of vineyard, terrace above terrace--a cataract of green trailing
foliage. Our entry was triumphal. The Lieutenant-Governor, on a grey
steed, pranced forth to receive the English Consul’s party, at the head
of an army of ten men, who formed line and presented arms. The
cavalry--six irregulars in all--galloped somewhat wildly about, and one
rider was kicked over his horse’s head; we then got jammed in a narrow
street, the horses fought, and the Kaimakam (or Governor) was nearly
kicked, and retired hastily.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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