Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
The olive harvest had commenced, and picturesque groups were gathered in
the groves, whilst little hammocks for the babies were slung between the
trees. The Bethlehem women are famous for their beauty, for their
delicate complexions and aquiline features; they are distinguished by
their head-dress, a tall felt hat, in shape a truncated cone, over which
a white veil is arranged, and from which heavy strings of coins are
suspended. Their dresses are also remarkable from the square patches of
red and yellow, which are introduced into the blue or striped fabric of
which they are composed.
Bethlehem is supplied with water by cisterns, and from the great
aqueduct which passes through the hill. The famous well for the waters
of which David thirsted, is supposed to be represented by an ancient and
extensive cistern with many mouths, on the north-west. It is not
impossible that this may be the “pit,” as Josephus calls it, which was
beside the gate of the city.
Two feasts are yearly held at Bethlehem, on the Greek and Latin
Christmas Eve. The scene on the latter occasion is especially
interesting, and may here be described, though I did not witness it
until the Christmas of 1874.
Arriving at Bethlehem on that occasion, we visited the church, and
descended into the sacred grotto. The floor of the chancel is raised,
but the transepts are on the same level with the basilica, and from them
two staircases lead down to the grotto, which is about twelve yards
long, and three or four wide. It was profusely decorated, and the
passages were hung with cloth of gold. The exact place of the Saviour’s
birth is shown near the east, in a recess beneath an altar. The manger
is on the south; both are cased in marble, but two old columns,
supporting the roof, appear to be of rock. The western passage, to the
Latin chapel, was decorated with paper hangings, with paintings of
scenes in our Lord’s life, and, over the hangings, were some pictures so
old that the tarnished gold backgrounds were covered with prismatic
tints.
The Latin chapel is a long vaulted room on the north of the basilica,
once painted in fresco, but now whitewashed. It was hung with red silk.
On the east is a large altar, with a screen and large wax torches:
behind it is the choir. The chapel is principally remarkable for its
fine silver lamps.
Mass was being performed, and the music and singing were impressive, in
a land where song seems almost unknown. The Latin Patriarch, in
cloth-of-silver, with a mitre of gold and jewels, and a handsome silver
crook, sat on his throne to the north. He was an Italian, a man of
dignified mien and delicate features, but apparently of very weak
health. After the service he was disrobed, and again robed in purple,
with a beautiful ermine cape, the dress of a Canon of the church. In
this attire, after a few prayers at a side altar, he was conducted out
in procession.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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