Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
There was something at once touching and ridiculous in this curious
scene: ridiculous when one considered the rude and inadequate symbolism
employed, and on the other hand impressive, when one reflected that for
fifteen centuries the Christmas morn had yearly been celebrated within
these walls, and the riches of the Church, the genius of great
composers, the intellect of a powerful priesthood, all combined to pay
honour to the birthday of the little Jewish child, who had been born in
the rude rock stable one wintry night, in a small village of a remote
and despised province of the empire of Rome.
Two more hours of singing and music followed, and the great procession
to the grotto was then formed. Long wax torches were given to the Consul
and his secretary, and candles to the rest of the congregation. A second
wax image, in a little wicker cradle, was placed on the altar beneath
the former, and borne thence by the Patriarch, who came last. As he
passed me, I saw that the figure was surrounded with long strips of
paper, like swaddling-clothes loosed from its limbs, one of its hands
being raised in benediction.
Very striking was the scene in passing through the Greek chancel. The
dark building was lighted only by the torches and tapers, which made the
silver lamps above shine out against the dusky background. A dense crowd
was kept in its ranks by two lines of Turkish soldiers with loaded
Snider rifles. The variety of costumes and faces was wonderful, while
the dark columns and grim figures in the glass mosaics, the forest of
rafters in the ancient roof, and the rich screen before the apse,
formed a dim and effective background, to the glittering line of priests
and acolytes in cloth of silver and gold.
The thought could not but suggest itself, how different was the scene
thus enacted, amidst the awe-stricken veneration of the multitude, with
all the pomp and magnificence which could be lavished on it by a rich
and long-established Church, from that first Christmas scene in the dark
damp stable beneath, the events of which day were now symbolised by the
dressing and undressing of a small wax doll.
The grotto was filled with priests, and blazed with crimson silk, silver
and gold, lit up by rows of silver lamps above. The Gospel for the day
was read in Latin, and at the words “Et peperit filium suum
primogenitum,” the image was laid by the Patriarch on the marble slab,
supposed to mark the spot where Christ was born.
“And wrapped Him in swaddling clothes.”
The paper bands were wound round the limbs of the image.
“And laid Him in a manger.”
The priest descended to the recess with little rock columns, and laid
the cradle on one of the two altars within. The Gospel was continued
from the words “And there were shepherds abiding in the fields,” until
the Gloria in Excelsis had again been sung, and the Patriarch, after
censing the image where it lay, returned with equal state to the Latin
chapel, where the mass was resumed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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