Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
dark; the Russians, yet stronger in build and more barbarian in air,
distinguished from every other nationality by their unkempt beards,
their long locks, their great fur caps, and boots. Not less distinct are
the Spanish, Mughrabee, Russian, and German Jews, each marked by a
peculiar and characteristic physiognomy.
Jerusalem is a city of contrasts, and differs widely from Damascus, not
merely because it is a stone town in mountains, whilst the latter is a
mud city in a plain, but because, while in Damascus Moslem religion and
Oriental custom are unmixed with any foreign element, in Jerusalem every
form of religion, every nationality of East and West, is represented at
one time.
Jerusalem is quite a small town, the circumference of its walls being
only two miles and three-quarters; yet within this space it contains a
population of 20,000 souls. Ten sects or religions are established in
it, and, if their various sub-divisions are counted, they amount to a
total of twenty-four, more than half of which are Christian. Prophets
and visionaries of no particular sect are also not wanting at any time
in the Holy City.
Jerusalem is a very ugly city. It is badly built of mean stone houses
perched on the slope of the watershed, and seems in constant danger of
sliding into the Kedron Valley. Beautiful bits of architecture are to be
admired in its interior--the Gothic façade of the Holy Sepulchre, the
grand walls of the Temple, the glowing interior of the mosque; the view
towards the east is also very fine, a long wall of far-off mountains,
with a foreground of embattled parapets and slender minarets standing
out against the distance. Yet, with all this, the city as a whole is not
beautiful; its flat-roofed houses and dirty lanes are neither pleasing
nor healthy, and the surrounding chalk hills are barren and shapeless.
Shechem is a fine well-watered city. Damascus is bedded in gardens, and
bristles with minarets, but there is nothing in the site or architecture
of Jerusalem, as a whole, which can save it from the imputation of
ugliness.
Going down David Street and through the fruit bazaar, with its
background of arches, wooden balconies, marble portals brown with age,
and fragments of Crusading architecture, you come at length through a
bye-lane to the Jews’ wailing-place--a narrow street with the high
Temple rampart rising on the east. All along the narrow court the Jews
are crowded on Friday. The scene is striking from the great size and
strength of the mighty stones, which rise without door or window up to
the domes and cypresses above, suggesting how utterly the original
worshippers are cast out, by men of alien race and faith, as they here
congregate to bewail “our people that are wanderers, our priests that
are defiled, our Temple that is cast down.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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