Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
Nearest to us stood the Pharisees from Germany, the Ashkenazi Jews,
dressed in their best; the old men with grey locks and thin grey beards,
on their heads the high black velvet cap edged with fur, their lovelocks
curling on either side of their lank faces, their robes long gabardines
of many colours; the younger men had blue-black hair, and pale
strongly-marked features; here and there one saw a richly-dressed boy, a
few little red-haired children, and occasionally an old woman, their
faces all stamped with that subtle likeness which betrays the Jews in
any country, and in any dress.
There were bits of colour in these groups which would have delighted
Rembrandt. An aged white-haired man, in a mulberry gabardine and black
velvet cap, contrasted with the black satin and fur of his next
neighbour, and in front of both was a third in a green dress. All these
dark rich costumes were set in a warm background of tawny colour made by
the great wall towering above.
Beyond the Ashkenazi were the Spanish and Mughrabee Jews, in quieter
colours with black turbans, brown-eyed and more dignified in bearing.
Presently came in a hulking fellow in citron-coloured coat and blue
trousers, with a tall black pointed lambs-wool cap--a Russian Jew. The
little Pharisees seemed to dwindle beside this giant, and his handsome,
fresh-coloured face, blue eyes, and russet beard, seemed hardly to allow
of his being one of the same nation; but it is the greatest peculiarity
of the Jews that while never intermarrying, they yet approach in
appearance most nearly the natives of the country in which they live,
without entirely losing national traits of a distinctive character--a
striking proof of the influence of climate and surroundings on race.
The emotion of a few of the worshippers was affecting. Here an aged
woman in a white veil stood mute, her eyes fixed on the great stones of
the Eternal House; there an elder leant his tearful face against the
wall, his lips moving, his prayer-book unheeded. But as a rule the crowd
maintained the tranquillity of an English congregation, and their dress
and appearance was rather ludicrous than otherwise. The Rabbi read verse
by verse the touching lamentation service, leaning his book on the wall,
and lighted by two or three ordinary candle-lanterns placed before him.
The assembly gave the responses in the peculiar manner of the Jews,
which reminds one of the buzzing of a swarm of flies when disturbed, and
they swayed their bodies all the time with the extraordinary bobbing
motion which always accompanies their prayers.
Strange and indeed unique is the spectacle, and it reminds one forcibly
of the unchanged character of the Jews. After nineteen centuries of
wandering and exile, they are still the same as ever, still bound by the
iron chain of Talmudic law, a people whose slavery to custom outruns
even that of the Chinese to etiquette, and whose veneration for the past
appears to bar the way of progress or improvement in the present.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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