Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
Nothing was more remarkable than the patience of the soldiery who had to
keep order. The Greeks gave most trouble, and in 1873 the feeling
evinced by them was very bitter, because their favourite Patriarch had
just been deposed. A very fat old colonel walked up and down, armed with
a murderous _kurbaj_, or whip of hippopotamus hide; he would sit on the
floor and look at the crowd, sometimes putting an additional big soldier
at a weak point in the line. The men were armed with the Snider, and
were very stalwart and tall. Sometimes the crowd became dangerous, and
hissed. As fast as his legs could carry him, the Colonel rushed to the
spot, and down came the whip; then where a moment before were angry
faces and arms stretched out with clenched fists, there was suddenly
nothing but a flat surface of backs, or a few arms raised to protect the
heads. Yet on the whole it was a good-natured crowd, and the soldiers
were wonderfully patient. Little incidents of a comic nature occurred,
and an Arab chief, who tried to swagger down the lane, found his
head-shawl off and far away in a moment, tossed from hand to hand amid
shouts of laughter.
Two wooden galleries were erected, under the arches to the west, each
three storeys high; and here sat native women of the better class, in
their best silks, yellow and red stuffs, cachemire shawls, white muslin
and blue cloth, with flashing eyes and painted faces. They lay scattered
over the bright carpets, presenting an effect of colour more brilliant
than that of the broad masses of sombre tints below.
About one o’clock in the afternoon, the natives of Jerusalem arrived--a
long wave of human beings bursting suddenly in from the south, and
surging along the narrow lane. Many were stripped to their vests and
drawers--in regular fighting costume. They rushed at the fire-hole, and
the first comers thrust their arms into it to keep their places. The
effect of this crowd within a crowd--a moving wave, ploughing through
the two packed masses--was very curious. No sooner was it pushed and
swept into place and the lane cleared, than it burst into one long loud
shout of repetition--
“Hádha kúb-er Sáid--ná!
Hádha kúb-er Sáid--ná!”
which was repeated twenty or thirty times at a breath; and a big man was
hoisted up, and fairly pounded the walls of the Sepulchre with his fist,
shrieking the same refrain and pointing at the chapel with his fingers,
while the crowd joined in the last syllable--a tremendous shout of “Na!”
And now the rotunda contained some 2000 persons, and the church probably
10,000 in all, when, at 2.15 p.m., the procession was formed, and the
nasal chant of the priests was heard in the Greek church.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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