Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
We visited the Dead Sea once more, to fix up poles for observing the
water-levels; these poles had been carefully made in Jerusalem, and were
marked with figures. The first we drove, without difficulty, at the
water’s edge, but the second it was almost impossible to fix. Floating
on my back, I held it upright in the water with my feet, while Drake
swam and drove it with a mallet. There was a strong current, which made
the operation most difficult, but at length it was so far fixed that I
was able to climb on to it, and to drive it down farther with the mallet
from above. We were nearly an hour in the water, and Drake suffered from
the over-exertion. Within a week the Arabs pulled up the poles, for the
sake of the iron, in spite of the reiterated assurances of the Sheikhs
that they should be respected.
We next visited the spring encampment of Sheikh Jemîl, and, after the
coffee, we were treated to a repast consisting of a sort of omelette and
a dish of sweet rice, both very good, as was also the thin wafer-like
bread just baked. From the tent-door we looked out on the flowery slopes
and the gleaming lake, on the children, camels and donkeys, goats and
kids, and lambs with speckled fleeces, such as Jacob chose from Laban’s
flocks. Here and there a female figure stole out, robed in the dark
green and indigo-coloured sweeping garments peculiar to the Bedawîn
women; and inside the black camel’s-hair tent, on bright cushions and
carpets, our friends sat round--Jemîl, the educated chief, who could
read and write; Jedû’a, his brother, the great hunter of the ibex; the
young flaxen-haired Sheikh who had been one of our principal guides; and
many others with faces then quite familiar to me.
On Tuesday the 26th of February we struck camp, and marched north to
Fusâil, the ancient Phasaelis founded by Herod. Our procession was
spread over a quarter of a mile as I reviewed it from a hillock beside
the road. Five Englishmen on horseback came first, eight mules, and
eight camels followed, we had four Bedawîn guides, seven muleteers, six
servants, and a Bashi-Bazouk, three donkeys, and Sheikh Jemîl’s
dromedary--in all, twenty-seven individuals and thirty-four animals,
including six dogs.
The new camp was not in the territory of Sheikh Jemîl, and I had
procured letters to the Emir of the Mes’aid Arabs. Our old friends left
us, and Jemîl seemed disappointed by the present I gave him, though it
was worth five pounds, but was radiant on the receipt of another five
shillings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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