Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
About two p.m., on the 28th, the Emîr was announced; he was seen coming
across the plain, with ten horsemen armed with long lances, and swords,
and with guns which they kept firing off. They dismounted with much
ceremony, and coffee was served; the Emîr was rather a handsome man,
with delicate features and very small hands and feet. He left his son
and nephew with us, but was very anxious we should come on to the Fâr’ah
Valley where his camp was pitched. We had intended to give him a dinner,
but the provisions did not arrive, and he intimated, through the
servants, that money would be more acceptable, so I had two
half-sovereigns wrapped up in paper, and slipped one into his hand and
one into that of his cousin; I also sent out to him a black abba, and
the great prince rode off happily. I suppose that had I offered such a
present during the troublous year 1877, when Fendi-el-Faiz took £300
from Tiberias, the Emir would not have been so contented with the
amount.
We found it very difficult to keep any Arabs at Fusâil; some said it was
not their country, others that the fever was always bad there, others
again that they were afraid of a ghoul in the ruins. In reality the
country here belongs to the Fellahîn, and I imagine no Arabs had a right
to camp there. We were much hindered by weather; rain and snow fell, and
though the latter never came into the valley it lay thick on the hills;
and on the summit of the Kurn Sûrtûbeh we were caught in a fall of
sleet. Corporal Brophy had to ride up 3000 feet every morning before he
got to his work, and the transitions of temperature were far from
improving our health.
We were now almost at the foot of the Sûrtûbeh block, one of the finest
features of the valley; and I surveyed the detail on the mountain
myself; for ever since 1873 I had been in the habit of taking part in
the survey of detail. In addition to this I had my duties as commander,
and the writing of notes and reports, studies of archæological and
antiquarian questions, plan-making, hill-shading, accounts, and general
provisioning, all of which duties fell upon me personally.
The Sŭrtŭbeh is a block of chalk which has slid down the face of
the tilted dolomitic limestone of the watershed hills. Its summit, two
thousand four hundred feet above the valley, is capped by a cone two
hundred and seventy feet high, with steep smooth sides like those of the
so-called Frank Mountain (Herodium) near Bethlehem. The building on the
top appears to be the foundation of a Crusading fort with large drafted
stones; beneath are caves all round the hill, and lower still a sort of
terrace like a garden. An aqueduct follows the contour of the mountain,
collecting surface-drainage and leading to some large reservoirs cut in
rock. A wall, enclosing a space some thirty yards by ninety, surrounds
the foundations of the tower, which are about eighteen feet in height.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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