Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
On the 20th we marched to the pleasant gardens of Jenin, and felt as if
returning to civilisation. The horses were shod, and the party became
wonderfully high-spirited, relieved from the abnormal pressure of the
air below sea-level, and looking forward to rest and better food.
Such is the history of the Survey of the Jordan Valley. The results were
more important than could have been hoped. The cost was the complete
exhaustion of Drake and myself. Being ordered home by medical advice, I
left Drake with many apprehensions about his health. We clasped hands
and parted, never to meet again, for almost the first news I got, on
reaching England, was that he had been again attacked with the horrible
typhoid fever of Jericho. After reaching Jerusalem the exposure and
malaria proved too much for his constitution, and we paid a heavy price
for our success, for he died at his post in the summer. It is a sad
consolation to remember that we had been cordial and entirely of one
mind, during the two years we had spent together, and that not a single
unkind or hasty word had passed between us. In the gallant gentleman who
had been my only companion for so long, I lost a friend whose fine
qualities I had learned to appreciate, and whose tact and courtesy had
lightened the burden of the command which I held.
[Illustration: DEBIR.]
CHAPTER XV.
HEBRON AND BEERSHEBA.
On the 20th of September, 1874, I once more landed in Palestine, having
been absent for nearly five months, four of which were spent in England,
where I was detained on account of my health. During this period the
party had been engaged, under charge of Sergeant Black, in office work
and survey, in the vicinity of Jerusalem.
On the 5th of October we camped at ’Ain Dhirweh, just by Hŭlhûl. This
village stands on the watershed of the Hebron hills, 3300 feet above the
sea, and only three miles north of Hebron itself. My object was to avoid
camping at the latter town, and thus to escape the suspicion of wishing
to attempt an entrance into the Hebron Haram.
The fountain of Dhirweh is traditionally that at which St. Philip
baptised the Eunuch, and traces of an old chapel are visible above it;
but it seems improbable that chariots could ever have travelled along
these stony mountain paths, and the road to Gaza by which the Apostle
was travelling on that occasion should rather be sought in the plain.
Opposite to our camp was Bethsur, famous in Maccabean times--a stony
hill with a ruined tower on the top. To the north we discovered a ruin
called Kueizîba, perhaps Chozeba, the home of Bar Cochebas; and near it
we found the head of Pilate’s great aqueduct to Jerusalem, never before
traced to its real commencement, which is thirteen miles from Jerusalem
as the crow flies, and forty-one and a half by the aqueduct, the fall
being 365 feet in that distance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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