Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
Riding on the 10th of October to the hill above Dûra, we obtained a
glimpse of the extreme southern boundary of the Survey. The view was
fine; to the east was the great ridge on which stands the traditional
tomb of Lot; on the west the Philistine plain lying in a hot haze which
towards Gaza hid it entirely; on the south were rolling hills, isolated
mounds, and a broad plain, with a dark patch near the Beersheba wells;
and yet farther were grey misty ridges, the land appearing to descend in
steps towards the Desert of Wanderings.
In returning to camp we passed through the luxuriant vineyards of the
supposed Vale of Eshcol, carefully enclosed between dry-stone walls. The
grapes, mellowed by the autumn mists, were in full beauty; the rich
amber-green foliage covered the whole of the open valley; beyond was a
stone town, and a fortress gleaming with a recent coating of whitewash,
having a tall minaret above. A barren hill and a few grey olives rose
behind. Such was our first view of Hebron, the ancient city which, as
the Bible tells us, “was built seven years before Zoan (or Tanis) in
Egypt” (Num. xiii. 22).
The results of the fuller acquaintance which we gained with the town, in
three subsequent visits of several days’ duration, may here be gathered
up. Hebron is a long stone town on the western slope of a bare terraced
hill; it extends along the valley, and the main part reaches about 700
yards north and south, including the Mosque Quarter, and the Quarter of
the Gate of the Corner. On the north is a separate suburb, named from
the mosque of ’Aly Bukka, who died in 670 A.H.; on the south also, and
west of the road, is another small suburb. The Haram stands above the
middle of the main Quarter. The Sultan’s Pool--a large well-built
reservoir, occupies part of the valley. West of the city is an open
green below the Quarantine, surrounded by hills which are covered with
olives.
The contrast between Hebron and Bethlehem has been already noticed; the
town has a dead-alive appearance, and the sullen looks of the Moslem
fanatics contrast with the officious eagerness of the Bethlehem
Christians. There are some 17,000 Moslems in Hebron, according to the
Governor’s account; and about 600 Jews are tolerated in the Quarter of
the Corner Gate. The town is the centre of commerce for the southern
Arabs, who bring their wool and camel’s-hair to its market. It has also
a sort of trade in glass ornaments and in leather water-buckets, but the
bustle and stir of Bethlehem are not found in its streets; the
inhabitants seem wrapped in contemplation of the tombs of their
forefathers, and boast that no pagan Frank has yet desecrated the holy
shrines with his presence, or built his house in the town.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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