Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
The spring itself, 83° F. in temperature, comes out from under a great
boulder, and the water streams over a steep cliff, the course being
marked by a fringe of vegetation beside the cascade. There is a little
sloping plateau with remains of a square drystone platform, not unlike
an altar; and round the spring there is a cane-brake and thicket of
Solanum and prickly bushes, with the ’Osher trees, or “apples of Sodom,”
growing above, the fruit of which consists chiefly of skin and white
pith, but is hollow within, while the leaves of the tree are thick and
fleshy. Among these thickets the beautiful black grackles, with
gold-tipped wings, with the bulbuls, and hopping thrushes, were the only
living things visible.
The view extended across the calm blue sea to the great eastern
precipices. The broad tongue of the Lisân ran out only some few feet
above the water-level, and high above, the great Castle of Kerak, with
its towers and bastions, stood distinct and white on its rocky scarps,
taking one back in imagination to the middle ages.
On the south the scene was equally grand. The long western beach of the
sea stretched away with a succession of little white capes running out
into the blue water, and, above this, the great cliffs--bastion beyond
bastion of castellated crags divided by great gorges, succeeded one
another. A steep slope of débris lay at their feet, and beneath this was
a second line of white terrace--the Siddim cliffs, which are shores of a
former lake. A dark, square, rocky promontory was capped by a building
conspicuous against the sky-line, being part of the fortress of Masada,
and yet farther off the salt mountain of Usdûm, and the blue range of
the Arabah closed the view, but were half hidden by the smoke of burning
reeds in the marshes south of the lake.
Descending six hundred feet from the spring, by the ruins of former
gardens, we rode northwards for about half a mile, and then, leaving our
horses at a spot where the boulders were too rough to allow them a
footing, we toiled along the shore for two and a half miles, in search
of the sulphur springs discovered by Dr. Tristram. Scrambling over
cliffs, or walking in the water round promontories, we reached the
place; but the season had brought only a little rain to this part of the
desert, and the springs were dry, being only recognisable by the strong
local smell of the sulphur. Along this desolate shore we found the
pickled bodies of fish from Jordan, and here and there a palm stem,
carried over from the east, while in the hollows of the rocks we noticed
the waves splashing up, leaving little pools which dried rapidly, and
made a white bed of crystalline salt on the stones.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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