Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
On the morning of the 3rd of March, we were visited by a kind of simoon,
a violent wind, accompanied by a dusty mist which hid the sea. Our tents
were in the greatest danger of being blown over the cliff, and they
soared up like balloons, being only kept back by turning out the whole
party to hold the ropes.
I now saw reason to credit the stories of fighting having occurred
farther south, and it seemed well to have some one with us who was known
to the Jâhalîn Arabs. I sent therefore to Hebron, and in the evening old
Sheikh Hamzeh--the well-known guide whom Professor Palmer employed, and
who accompanied Dr. Tristram--came into camp. Though over eighty years
of age, he had walked all the way, seventeen miles, in about six hours.
Next morning we parted from our Tâ’amireh friends, for whom I had a
great liking, and we marched south. None of the animals had been watered
for about twelve hours, and the eagerness with which the horses rushed
over slippery rocks to a pool left by the rains was not surprising.
Our new camp was on an open plateau, nine miles from Engedi, beside a
rock-cut tank, full of water, and the water full of frogs--the only
supply for drinking within several miles. This place is called Bîr esh
Sherky, “the Eastern well.”
Rain fell during the night, but the morning was fine, and we set out to
visit the magnificent fortress of Sebbeh, or Masada, the last Jewish
stronghold after the destruction of Jerusalem by Titus. Old Hamzeh was
mounted on a pony and rode gaily before us, flourishing his pipe, while
his white beard floated in the wind, as he carolled a war-song in a very
cracked voice.
We had five of the Jâhalîn Arabs with us, whom we had picked up from the
neighbourhood; they were the hardiest runners I have ever seen in any
country, their muscles being strung like whipcord, and their lungs
magnificent. Scantily clad, shod with sandals, and armed with long
fowling-pieces, which were brass-bound, with flint locks, they trotted
in front of the horses as we cantered.
After passing over undulating hills, we reached the head of a gorge
finer than any we had seen before, and crossing the shingly bed of the
great valley, we climbed on to a white plain, at the end of which, eight
miles from camp, we perceived an isolated square block of hill, with a
flat plateau at the top, and vertical walls of rock all round. This crag
has a great valley on either side, and a narrow plain beneath it on the
east, reaching to the Dead Sea shore. As we descended into the northern
gorge, we saw a large herd of what I at first took for gazelles, but as
they cantered across the plain their great rounded horns showed them to
be the Beden, or ibex, the “wild goats” of the Bible, which abound among
the precipices in this pathless waste.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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