Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
On the last day of June we marched east to the miserable little hamlet
of El B’aîneh, which, with two others, stands on the north slopes of
Jebel Tôr’an, an isolated block of mountain rising out of the plateau of
the Buttauf. Here we found the inhabitants all fever-stricken from the
malarious exhalations of the great swamp, which even as late as July
extended over half the plain. The place was evidently unhealthy, and we
were tortured by the armies of large musquitoes rendering sleep
impossible at night. The levelling operations required us to camp in the
plain, but we hastened on the work as much as possible, looking forward
to a retreat into the mountains of Upper Galilee, which, being 4000 feet
above the sea, would be cool and pleasant, and, as we hoped, safe from
the scourge of cholera, which had already devastated Damascus, and was
creeping slowly south.
The view from the summit of Tôr’an is interesting and extensive. The Sea
of Galilee is visible, and we were able to fix the direction of many
points along its shore.
On the south, separated from Tôr’an by a second plain, lay the low bare
range of the Nazareth hills, Neby S’ain, and Gath Hepher with the tomb
of Jonah, being visible, while rather farther east Kefr Kenna stood
among its olive-groves and gardens of pomegranates.
Tabor, crowned with two monasteries, was also plainly visible, east of
the Nazareth range, the slopes partly hidden by oak-groves. Through a
gap, between it and the western hills, the outline of Gilboa and part
of Jebel ed Duhy could be seen. The plain of Esdraelon was hidden, but
the cone of Sheikh Iskander was visible to the south-west.
To the west the view extended over the low wooded hills to the long
range of Carmel, which was visible, from the Peak of Sacrifice to the
white monastery where, on a little spit, stands the German wind-mill,
which showed up quite black against the gleaming sea.
The brown and fertile plain of the Buttauf, in the basaltic soil of
which tobacco, corn, maize, sesame, cotton, and every species of
vegetable grow luxuriantly, lay at our feet. The high blunt top of Jebel
Deidebeh (“mountain of the watch-tower”), crowned with its ring of
thicket, rose behind, shutting out the view. Beyond this was the chain
of hills running eastwards, with rolling grey up-lands dotted with
olives, while farther still, some ten or twelve miles away, rose the
mountain wall of Upper Galilee, culminating in Jebel Jermûk, a bare
craggy ridge which closed the view to the north. Turning yet farther
east, the large town of Safed shone white on the mountain-side, divided
into two quarters, with a double-pointed summit behind them. Beyond all,
dark and dreamlike, the great Hermon, “Sheikh of the mountains,” was
seen streaked with silver lines of snow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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