Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
Crossing the valley, we see before us the site of Jezreel on a knoll 500
feet high. The position is very peculiar, for whilst on the north and
north-east the slopes are steep and rugged, on the south the ascent is
very gradual, and the traveller coming northwards is astonished to look
down suddenly on the valley, with its two springs, one (’Ain Jâlûd)
welling out from a conglomerate cliff, and forming a pool about 100
yards long, with muddy borders; the other (’Ain Tub’aûn), the Crusaders’
Fountain of Tubania, where the Christian armies were fed “miraculously”
for three days on the fish which still swarm in most of the great
springs near.
The main road ascends from near these springs and passes by the “Dead
Spring,” which was re-opened by the Governor of Jenîn, and now forms a
shallow pool between rocks of black basalt, covered with red and
orange-coloured lichen, and also full of little fish; thence it passes
on the east side beneath the knoll of Zer’în (Jezreel) to the plain on
the south. Climbing up to the village, we are again struck by the
absence of any traces of antiquity; the buildings, including the central
tower, are all modern, and only the great mound beneath, and perhaps
some of the innumerable cisterns, seem ancient; yet the site is
undoubted, and has never been really lost. Here from a tower, perhaps
standing where the modern one is erected, the watchman could see down
the broad Valley of Jezreel as far as Bethshan, and watch the dust and
the gleam of the armour advancing. The course of the two horsemen and of
Jehu’s chariot was distinctly seen beneath the hill, and the distances
are sufficiently extensive to give time for the succession of events.
On the east and south-east there are rock-cut wine presses on the rugged
hills, where no doubt the “portion of the field of Naboth” and his
vineyard are to be placed,--a good instance of the decay of vine
cultivation in Palestine.
It was by the “fountain which is in Jezreel” that Saul pitched before
the fatal battle of Gilboa. The Philistines removed from Shunem to
Aphek, and, according to Josephus, to Rangan. Perhaps these are the
modern Fukû’a and ’Arrâneh, in which case the strong position of Jezreel
was turned on the south-west, where it is most assailable, and the
doomed monarch was hemmed in between the enemy on the south and the
precipices of the mountain on the north.
On the 28th of September we left the Jenîn camp, where we suffered from
the east wind and the great heat, to find a retreat in the western hills
above the Great Plain, at the modern village of Umm el Fahm.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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