Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
Acre is a walled town, with a single gate on the south-east. Its trade
is now much reduced, and the bazaars are deserted; the richest
inhabitant is not worth £1000. The ramparts, blown up by the English in
1840, remain in ruins, and the whole place has a desolate appearance.
The port was filled up in the seventeenth century, by Fakhr ed Din, and,
in the whole space between the walls and the old Crusading pier--a
breadth of 700 yards east and west, by 350 north and south--the greatest
depth of water is only six feet, the average being two or three. The
appearance of the town outside is picturesque; with brown walls, a tower
on a rock in the sea, called, from the fourteenth century downwards (and
perhaps earlier) El Manâra, yellow stone houses, with two higher
buildings, roofed with red tiles, and with green shutters; above all,
the large white mosque of Jezzar Pacha, a square building, with a dome
and a graceful minaret, surrounded by palms, and with chambers for the
students, covered by rows of little round domes; behind this, the modern
barrack, on the site of the old Crusading castle.
Entering the town, I found many of the bazaars turned into cavalry
stables, and only about one shop in ten inhabited. In the southern part,
however, a busier scene may be witnessed.
Near the Greek convent I found, in ruins, the tombs of two English
officers, who fell in a sortie in 1799, Major Oldfield and Colonel
Walker, of the Marines. The name-plate of the second had been stolen,
and the whole monument was in a disgraceful condition. I afterwards had
these two tombs repaired, and a new title and head-stone made by Mr.
Shumacher for that of Colonel Walker, whose name I obtained from the
English Consular agent. I had them railed in, and thus protected from
insult, and public proclamation was made by the Governor to cause them
to be respected. Unfortunately, I have never been able to revisit them
since they were repaired, though I believe they are still in good order.
The walls of Acre are of masonry, drafted after the fashion used by the
Crusaders, and they probably date in part from that period. The powder
magazine, blown up in 1840 by the English, is still in ruins; rusty guns
are pointed in the embrasures. On the north and east are bastions with a
very slight projection, a glacis, and ravelin. Two mortars were shown as
left behind by Napoleon, and English cannon-balls are visible sticking
in the walls of the castle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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