Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
The great mosque of Jezzar Pacha is built of materials brought from
’Athlît, Cæsarea, and Haifa. The north entrance, from the rudely-paved
street leading to the castle, is flanked by a beautiful little fountain
with rich lattice-work of marble. The square yard within is paved with
black and white marble in bands; lofty palms grow between the paved
walks, and a colonnade runs round, supported on shafts of marble and red
granite, with rude capitals not originally made for the pillars. In the
centre is an octagonal fountain of marble, some five feet high,
surmounted by a wooden dome, once beautifully painted. The mosque within
has a porch, with lofty granite columns, capped with marble. It is a
large square building, cased in coloured marble, with little cloisters
on three sides, the dome above painted and whitewashed, with a gallery
round the drum. The fresco-painting is much worn. An English clock is
placed at each side of the door, set to Arabic time (six o’clock being
noon), and standing in a high case of walnut. The Mihrab, or
prayer-niche, on the south wall, is handsomely adorned with flagging of
marble, and is high enough to stand in.
The Moslems were at prayer. A peasant, in a gorgeous head-shawl, a dark
blue jacket, and a robe (kumbâz) of pink and white stripes, was
performing the usual genuflections and prostrations. A wooden torch, six
feet high, in imitation of the wax torches brought from Mecca (such as
exist at Jerusalem in the mosque), is placed on either side of the
Mihrab, and to the right is a handsome marble pulpit. A long inscription
in yellow letters on a blue ground runs round the walls of the mosque.
Two beautifully carved stone tombs are shown in the courtyard near the
minaret; but the tomb of the founder is in the north-east corner of the
town.
Passing through the crooked, narrow, ill-paved lanes of Acre, where huge
camels jostle the crowd of bright-coloured peasants and Bedawin, we
visited the “galères,” or convict prison, so much dreaded by the
natives, because hard labour is enforced on the prisoners. The dark
vaults are entered by a wooden door, from between the bars of which
heads and arms were stuck out, the convicts shouting for charity--the
whole scene a perfect pandemonium.
There were no less than 300 cavalry in Acre, well mounted on fine
half-bred horses; but the place has no real strength, and its
fortifications could not resist the attacks of modern warfare.
Acre is not a city famous in Scripture. It is noticed, indeed, under the
names Accho and Ptolemais; but the Jews were not a maritime people, and
it had not, therefore, in their eyes, the importance which afterwards
made it “the key to Syria.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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