Such a weaving of pure gold was, here in England, followed certainly
as late as the beginning of the tenth century; very likely much later.
In the chapter library belonging to Durham cathedral may be seen a
stole and maniple, which bear these inscriptions: “Ælfflaed fieri
precepit. Pio episcopo Fridestano.” Fridestan was consecrated bishop of
Winchester A. D. 905. With these webs under his eye, Mr. Raine writes
thus: “In the first, the ground work of the whole is woven exclusively
with thread of gold. I do not mean by thread of gold, the silver-gilt
wire frequently used in such matters, but real gold thread, if I may
so term it, not round, but flat. This is the character of the whole
web, with the exception of the figures, the undulating cloud-shaped
pedestal upon which they stand, the inscriptions and the foliage; for
all of which, however surprising it may appear, vacant spaces have been
left by the loom, and they themselves afterwards inserted with the
needle.” Further on, in his description of a girdle, the same writer
tells us: “Its breadth is exactly seven-eighths of an inch. It has
evidently proceeded from the loom; and its two component parts are a
flattish thread of pure gold, and a thread of scarlet silk.” Another
very remarkable piece, a fragment (probably) of a stole, was also found
lately at Durham in the grave of bishop Pudsey, who was buried about
the middle of the twelfth century. This was exhibited at the Society of
antiquaries, in the present year, 1875. It is made of rich silk, with a
diaper pattern in gold thread.
This love for such glittering attire, not only for sacred use but
secular wear, lasted long in England. The golden webs went under
different names; at first they were called “ciclatoun,” “siglaton,” or
“siklatoun,” as the writer’s fancy led him to spell the Persian word
common for them at the time throughout the east.
By the old English ritual plain cloth of gold was allowed, as now,
to be used for white when that colour happened to be ordered by the
rubric. Thus in the reign of Richard the second, among the vestments at
the chapel of St. George, Windsor castle, there was “one good vestment
of cloth of gold:” and St. Paul’s, London, had at the end of the
thirteenth century two amices embroidered with pure gold.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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