As time went on cloths of gold had other names. What the thirteenth
century called, first, “ciclatoun,” then “baudekin,” afterward “nak,”
was called, two hundred years later, “tissue”: a bright shimmering
golden textile. The very thin smooth paper which still goes by the name
of tissue-paper was originally made to be put between the folds of this
rich stuff to prevent fraying or tarnish, when laid by.
The gorgeous and entire set of vestments presented to the altar at St.
Alban’s abbey, by Margaret, duchess of Clarence, A. D. 1429, and made
of the cloth of gold commonly called “tyssewys,” must have been as
remarkable for the abundance and purity of the gold in its texture, as
for the splendour of the precious stones set on it and the exquisite
beauty of its embroideries. The large number of vestments made out of
gold tissue, and of crimson, light blue, purple, green, and black, once
belonging to York cathedral, are all duly registered in the valuable
“Fabric rolls” of that church lately published by the Surtees society.
Among the many rich and costly vestments in Lincoln cathedral, some
were made of this sparkling golden tissue contra-distinguished in its
inventory from the duller cloth of gold, thus: “Four good copes of blew
tishew with orphreys of red cloth of gold, wrought with branches and
leaves of velvet;” “a chesable with two tunacles of blew tishew having
a precious orphrey of cloth of gold.”
Silken textures ornamented with designs in copper gilt thread were
manufactured and honestly sold for what they really were: of such
inferior quality we find mention in the inventory of vestments at
Winchester cathedral, drawn up by order of Henry the eighth, where
we read of “twenty-eight copys of white bawdkyne, woven with copper
gold.” Another imitation of woof of gold was possibly fraudulent. This,
originally perhaps Saracenic, was practised by the Spaniards of the
south, and was not easily discovered. The very finest skins were sought
out for the purpose, as thin as that now rare kind of vellum called
“uterine” by collectors of manuscripts. These were heavily gilt and
then cut into very narrow strips, to be used instead of the true golden
thread.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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