The superior quality of some gold thread was known to the mediæval
world under the name of the place where it had been made. Thus we find
mention at one time of Cyprus gold thread; “a vestment embroidered with
eagles of gold of Cyprus:” later, of Venice gold thread, “for frenge of
gold of Venys at vj_s._ the ounce;” and again, “one cope of unwatered
camlet laid with strokes of Venis gold.” What may have been their
difference cannot now be pointed out: perhaps the Cyprian thread was
esteemed because its somewhat broad shred of flat gold was wound about
the hempen twist beneath it so nicely as to have the smooth unbroken
look of gold wire; while the manufacture of Venice showed everywhere
the twisting of common thread.
CHAPTER IV.
In earlier times, as at present, silks had various names,
distinguishing either their kind of texture, their colour, the design
woven on them, the country from which they were brought, or the use
for which, on particular occasions, they happened to be especially set
apart.
All these designations are of foreign growth; some sprang up in the
seventh and following centuries at Byzantium; some are half Greek,
half Latin, jumbled together; others, borrowed from the east, are so
shortened, so badly and variously spelt, that their Arabic or Persian
derivation can be hardly recognized at present. Yet without some slight
knowledge of them we hardly understand a great deal belonging to trade,
and the manners of the times glanced at by old writers; much less can
we see the true meaning of many passages in our mediæval English poetry.
Among the terms significative of the kind of web, or mode of getting
up some sorts of silk, we have _Holosericum_, the texture of which is
warp and woof wholly pure silk. From a passage in Lampridius we learn
that so early as the reign of Alexander Severus the difference between
“vestes holosericæ” and “subsericæ” was strongly marked, and that
_subsericum_ implied that the texture was not entirely but in part,
probably the woof, of silk.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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