Of silks patterned with the plain Greek cross or “stauracin” there are
also several examples in the same collection; and though not of the
remotest period are interesting. No. 8234, perhaps wrought in Sicily by
the Greeks brought as prisoners from the Morea in the twelfth century,
is not without some value. In the chapter library at Durham may be
seen (as we learn from Mr. Raine) an example of Byzantine stauracin
“colours purple and crimson; the only prominent ornament a cross--often
repeated, even upon the small portion which remains.” Those who
have seen in St. Peter’s sacristy at Rome that beautiful light-blue
dalmatic said to have been worn by Charlemagne when he sang the gospel,
vested as a deacon, on the day he was crowned emperor, will remember
how plentifully it is sprinkled with crosses between its exquisite
embroideries, so as to make the vestment a real “stauracin.” It has
been well given by Sulpiz Boisserée in his ‘Kaiser dalmatika in der St.
Peterskirche;’ but far better by Dr. Bock in his splendid work on the
coronation robes of the German emperors.
Silks called _de fundato_, from the pattern woven on them, are
frequently spoken of by Anastasius. From the text of that writer, and
from passages in other authors of his time, it would seem that the
silks themselves were dyed of the richest purple and figured with gold
in the pattern of netting. As one of the meanings for the word “funda”
is a fisherman’s net, rich textiles so figured in gold were denominated
“de fundato” or netted. We gather also from Fortunatus that the costly
purple-dyed silks called “blatta” were always interwoven with gold.
This net-pattern lingered long and, no doubt, we find it under a new
name “laqueatus”--meshed--upon a cope belonging to the church of St.
Paul’s, London, 1295: where an inventory, printed by Dugdale, includes
a cope of baudekin with fir-cones “in campis laqueatis.” Modifications
of this very old pattern may be seen at South Kensington, nos. 1264,
1266, and 8234. In the diapered pattern on some of the cloth of gold
found lately in the grave of an archbishop, buried at York about the
end of the thirteenth century, the same netting is discernible.
_Stragulatæ_, striped or barred silks, were at one time in much
request. Frequent mention is made of them in the Exeter inventories;
for example, in 1277, there were two palls of baudekin, one
“stragulata.” The illuminations in the manuscript in the Harley
collection at the British museum of the deposition of Richard the
second affords us instances of this textile. The young man to the
right sitting on the ground at the archbishop’s sermon is entirely,
hood and all, arrayed in this striped silk; and at the altar, where
Northumberland is swearing on the eucharist, the priest who is saying
mass wears a chasuble of the same stuff. Old St. Paul’s had an
offertory-veil of the same pattern; “stragulatum” with the stripes red
and green.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account