From Egypt through western Asia the art of tapestry-making found its
way to Europe, and after many ages at last to England. Among the other
manual labours followed in religious houses this handicraft was one;
and monks became some of the best workmen. The altars and the walls of
their churches were hung with tapestry. Matthew Paris tells us that
among other ornaments which, in the reign of Henry the first, abbot
Geoffrey had made for his church of St. Alban’s were three reredoses;
the first a large one wrought with the finding of the body of St.
Alban; the other two figured with the parables of the man who fell
among thieves, and of the prodigal son. While in London in the year
1316 Simon abbot of Ramsey bought looms, staves, shuttles, and a slay:
“pro weblomes emptis xx^s. Et pro staves ad easdem vj^d. Item pro iiij
shittles pro eodem opere ij^s vj^d. Item in j. slay pro textoribus
viij^d.” Collier, in his history, quotes a letter from Giffard, one of
the commissioners for the suppression of the smaller houses, written
to Cromwell; in which he says, speaking of the monastery of Wolstrope
in Lincolnshire: “Not one religious person there but that he can and
doth use either imbrothering, writing books with very fair hand, making
their own garments, carving, painting, or graving, etc.”
We may collect from Chaucer that working tapestry was not an uncommon
trade; among his pilgrims he mentions in the prologue,
An haberdasher and a carpenter,
A webbe, a dyer, and a tapisser.
Pieces of English-made tapestry still remain. That fine though greatly
damaged specimen at St. Mary’s hall, Coventry, representing the
marriage of Henry the sixth, is one; a second is the curious reredos
for an altar, belonging to the vintner’s company; this last is figured
with St. Martin on horseback cutting his cloak in two that he might
give one half to a poor man, and with St. Dunstan singing mass. A
third piece, of large size and in good preservation, is in private
possession, and hangs upon the wall in a house in Cornwall. It is one
of four pieces, of which two have been lost, representing the marriage
of Henry the seventh and Elizabeth of York; and was probably made about
the year 1490.
The art of weaving tapestry was successfully followed in many parts of
France and throughout ancient Flanders; where secular trade-guilds
were formed for its especial manufacture in many of the towns. Several
of these places won for themselves an especial fame; but so far, at
last, did Arras outrun them all that arras-work came to be the common
word, both here and on the continent, to mean all sorts of tapestry,
whether wrought in England or abroad. Thus the fine hangings for the
choir of Canterbury cathedral, now at Aix-en-Provence, though probably
made at home by his own monks and given to that church by prior
Goldston in 1595, are spoken of as arras-work: “de arysse subtiliter
intextos.”
[Illustration: Banner of the tapestry workers of Lyons.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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