Arras is but one among other terms by which, during the middle ages,
tapestry was called. Its earliest name was Saracenic work; “opus
Saracenicum;” and, at first, tapestry was wrought as in the east, in
a low or horizontal loom. The artisans of France and Flanders were
the first to introduce the upright or vertical frame, afterwards
known abroad as “de haute lisse,” in contradistinction to the low or
horizontal frame called “de basse lisse.” Workmen who kept to the
unimproved loom were known, in the trade, as Saracens, for retaining
the method of their paynim teachers; and their work, Saracenic. In
the year 1339 John de Croisettes, a Saracen-tapestry worker living
at Arras, sells to the duke of Touraine a piece of gold Saracenic
tapestry figured with the story of Charlemagne: “Jean de Croisettes,
tapissier Sarrazinois demeurant à Arras, vend au duc de Touraine un
tapis sarrazinois à or de l’histoire de Charlemaine.” The high frame,
however, soon superseded the low one; and among the pieces of tapestry
belonging to Philippe duke of Bourgogne and Brabant many are especially
entered as of the high frame; one of which is thus described: “ung
grant tapiz de haulte lice, sauz or, de l’istoire du duc Guillaume de
Normandie comment il conquist Engleterre.” A very fine example is still
to be seen in the collection at the Louvre, representing the history of
St. Martin.
[Illustration: The legend of St. Martin.--From a piece of tapestry of
the fourteenth century in the Louvre.]
With the upright, as with the flat frame, the workman had to grope in
the dark a great deal upon his path. In both, he was obliged to put
in the threads on the back or wrong side of the piece, following his
sketch as best he could behind the strings or warp. As the face was
downward in the flat frame it was much less easy to observe and correct
a fault. In the upright frame he might go in front, and with his own
work in open view on one hand and the original design full before him
on the other, he could mend as he went on, step by step, the smallest
mistake, were it but a single thread. Put side by side, when finished,
the pieces from the upright frame were in beauty and perfection far
beyond those from the flat one. We can scarcely particularize the
details in which that superiority consisted, for not one single flat
sample is to be identified as certain from evidence within our reach.
It is possible that at South Kensington the specimens nos. 1296 and
1465 are “Saracenic;” that is, wrought in the low flat loom, or “de
basse lisse;” but all the rest are of the “de haute lisse,” worked in
the upright frame. The “weaver” is among the trades engraved in the
curious volume printed at Frankfort in 1574, _de mechanicis artibus_,
with plates by Amman.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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