Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
the εἰρίοισι ἀπὸ ξυλοῦ of Herodotus may be understood to mean silk,
just as well as cotton; nay, the rather so, as it seems very likely
that, at the time when Amasis lived, silk, in the shape of thread, had
found, through traders’ hands, its way to the markets of Egypt, and
must have been thought a more fitting thing, from being a new as well
as costly material, to grace a royal gift to a religious sanctuary of
high repute, than the less precious and more common cotton. While this
question was agitated, specimens of mummy-cloth were submitted to the
judgment of several persons in the weaving trade deemed most competent
to speak upon the matter. Helped only by the fingers’ feel and the
naked eye, some among them agreed that such textures were really woven
of cotton. This opinion was but shortlived. Other individuals, more
philosophical, went to work on a better path. In the first place, they
clearly learned, through the microscope, the exact and never-varying
physical structure of both these vegetable substances. That of cotton
they found in its ultimate fibre to be a transparent tube without
joints, flattened so that its inward surfaces are in contact along
its axis, and also twisted spirally round its axis; that of flax, a
transparent tube, jointed like a cane, and not flattened or twisted
spirally.[18] Examined in the same way, several old samples of byssus
or mummy-bandages from Egypt in every one instance were ascertained
to be of fine unmixed flaxen linen. Ages before French Flanders had
dreamed of weaving fine lawns, ages before one of her industrial
cities--Cambray--had so far taken the lead as to be allowed to bestow
her own name, in the shape of “cambric,” on the finest kind that modern
European ingenuity could produce, Egypt had known how to give to the
world even a yet finer sort, and centuries after she had fallen away
from her place among the kingdoms of the earth, her enthralled people
still kept up their ancient superiority in spinning and weaving their
fine, sometimes transparent, byssus, of which a specimen or two may be
seen in this collection.[19]
[17] Georg. lib. ii. 120-121.
[18] Thomson in the Philosophical Magazine, 3rd series, t. v. num. 29,
Nov. 1834.
[19] No. 152.
For many reasons the history of
SILK
is not only curious, but highly interesting. In the early ages, its
very existence was quite unknown, and when found out, the knowledge
of it stole forth from the far east, and straggled westward very very
slowly. For all that lengthened period during which their remarkable
civilization lasted, the older Egyptians never once beheld silk:
neither they, nor the Israelites, nor any other of the most ancient
kingdoms of the earth, knew of it in any shape, either as a simple
twist, or as a woven stuff. Not the smallest shred of silk has
hitherto been found in the tombs, or amid the ruins of the Pharaonic
period.
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