Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
In the fourteenth century a fashion grew up here in England of figuring
symbolism--heraldic and religious--upon the articles of dress, as we
gather from specimens here, as well as from other sources. The ostrich
feather, first assumed by our Black Prince, was a favourite device
with his son Richard II. for his flags and personal garments. This
is well shown in the illumination given, p. 31, of the “Deposition
of Richard II.,” published by the Antiquarian Society. That king’s
mother had bequeathed to him a new bed of red velvet, embroidered with
ostrich feathers of silver, and heads of leopards of gold, with boughs
and leaves issuing out of their mouths.[431] Through family feeling,
not merely the white swan, but this cognizance of the Yorkists--the
ostrich feather--was sometimes figured on orphreys for church copes and
chasubles, since in the Exeter, A.D. 1506, we find mentioned a cope,
“le orfrey de rubeo damasco operato de opere acuali cum rosis aureis
ac ostryge fethers insertis in rosis,” &c.;[432] and again, “le orfrey
de blodio serico operata de opere acuali cum cignis albis et ostryge
fethers--i casula de blodio serico operata opere acuali cum ostryge
fethers sericis, le orfrey de rubeo serico operato cum ostryge fethers
aureis.”[433] Lincoln Cathedral, too, had a cope of red damask, with
ostriges feathers of silver.[434] This somewhat odd element of design
for a textile is to be found on one here, No. 7058, p. 129.
[431] Testamenta Vetusta, i. 14.
[432] Ed. Oliver, p. 347.
[433] Ibid. p. 365.
[434] Mon. Anglic. t. viii. p. 1282, ed. Caley.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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