Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
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Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
Web for Orphreys; ground, cloth of gold pricked with crimson; design,
the names--“Jhesus,” “Maria,” done in blue silk, between two trees, one
bearing heads of crimson fruit, the other lilies, parti-coloured white
with crimson; and the green sward, from which both spring, covered
with full-blown daisies in one instance, with unexpanded daisies in the
other. German, late 15th century. 17½ inches by 4½ inches.
Like several other specimens in the collection, and most probably
woven to be the orphreys sewed, before and behind, in a horizontal
stripe, upon the dalmatics and tunicles for high mass. The student
of symbolism will not fail to see in the tree to the right hand the
mystic vine, bearing bunches of crimson grapes; while, to the left,
the tree covered with parti-coloured lilies--white for purity, red
for a bleeding-heart--is referrible to the Blessed Virgin Mary, whose
heart, as she stood at the foot of the cross, underwent all the pains
of martyrdom foretold her by Simeon when he said,--“And thine own soul
a sword shall pierce,” _Luke_ ii. 35.
1350.
Web for Orphreys; ground, narrow blue spaces alternating with wider
crimson ones; design, the name of “Jhesus,” in gold upon the blue,
between two borders checkered crimson blue and yellow, the crimson
spaces charged with a floriation, alternately gold and yellow; the next
blue space inscribed with the name “Maria” in gold. In the names, as
well as the floriation, the metal has become tarnished so as to look a
dull brown. German, late 15th century. 19 inches by 2¼ inches.
Of such webs there are several specimens in the collection; and their
use was to ornament liturgical vestments, in those long perpendicular
lines found upon tunicles and dalmatics.
1351.
Piece of Raised Velvet; ground, crimson; design, a conventional
artichoke, wreathed with small flowers in green and yellow within a
garland of the same colours. Italian, 16th century. 11½ inches by 11
inches.
1351A.
Piece of Raised Velvet. A part of the same stuff. Italian, 16th
century. 9¾ inches by 1¾ by inches.
1351B.
Piece of Raised Velvet. A part of the same stuff. Italian, 16th
century. 12½ inches by 1¾ inches.
These three pieces are portions of a material made of excellent rich
silk, and of good tones in colour.
1352.
Piece of Raised Velvet, brocaded in gold; ground, crimson; design,
an oval with cusps inside and enclosing a large artichoke, the whole
wreathed with a garland, and in gold. Italian, 16th century. 2 feet
3¾ inches by 8¼ inches.
This magnificent stuff is rendered still more valuable, as a specimen,
from having much of its design of that rare kind of velvet upon
velvet, or one pile put over, in design, another but lower pile. The
state-rooms of a palace could alone have been hung with such sumptuous
wall-coverings. Perhaps church vestments and hangings about the altar
may have been sometimes made of such a heavy material.
1352A.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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