Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
No doubt this stuff was meant for hangings in a palace or
dwelling-house; and among the flowers may be seen the bignonia or
trumpet-flower, and the pomegranate opening and about to shed its seed.
1366.
Linen Diaper; design, square made out of four leaves. Flemish, late
16th century. 20 inches by 9 inches.
The pattern, though so simple, is very pleasing, and the stuff itself
speaks of Yprès as being the place of its origin.
1367.
Silk Taffeta; ground, purple; design, amid boughs, a pair of birds,
with an artichoke between them, all in orange-yellow. Sicilian, 14th
century. 9¾ inches square.
This light thin stuff, quiet in its tones and simple in its pattern,
must have been wrought for lining robes of rich stuffs.
1368.
Silk Damask; ground, white satin; design, amid flowers, among which
the chrysanthemum is very conspicuous, a group, consisting of a man
inside a low fence looking upwards upon a blue lion and a golden tiger,
seemingly at play, side by side, one of which is about to be struck by
a long spear held by a man standing above, within a walled building.
Just over him stands another man with a short mace in one hand, in
the other a small bottle, out of which comes a large bough of the
pomegranate tree in leaf, flower, and fruit. Chinese, 16th century. 2
feet 6¾ inches by 10¾ inches.
For the soft warm tints of its several coloured flos-silks, the
pureness of the gold thread upon the human faces, the animals and
the flowers, the correctness of the drawing, and the well-arranged
freedom of the whole pattern, there are few pieces that come up to
this in the whole collection. In all likelihood it was brought from
China, perhaps made up as a liturgical chasuble, by some Portuguese
missionary priest, in the latter portion of the 16th or beginning of
the 17th century.
1369.
Dalmatic; ground, blue silk; design, narrow bands charged with
circles enclosing a word in imitated Arabic, and conventional flowers
separating two hounds couchant, gardant, each within his own circle,
all in gold, and a large conventional floriation, at the foot of which
are two cheetahs collared, courant, face to face, all in white silk,
slightly specked with crimson, and between this group two eagles, in
white silk, flying down upon two small hounds, sejant, gardant, both
in gold. The orphreys, broad and narrow, are embroidered with heraldic
shields set upon a golden ground. Sicilian, 14th century. 3 feet 5½
inches by (across the sleeves) 4 feet 2¾ inches.
Some ruthless hand has cut away from the back a large square piece of
this vestment; and, to adopt it to modern fashion, its sleeves have
been slit up at the under side. The armorial bearings are, on one
shield, a chief _or_, _gules_, three stars, two, and one _argent_; on
the other, _purpure_, two arrows in saltire _or_.
The cheetahs are well marked by the round spots upon them; and when
new, this stuff, with its pattern so boldly figured, must have been
pleasing.
1370.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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