Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
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Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
Like the piece immediately preceding, this too comes to us with an
account that it once formed a part of the white silk imperial tunic
belonging to the same holy Emperor Henry II., and was cut off from
that garment now preserved in the Maximilian Museum in the royal
palace at Munich. That it could have been wrought so early as the
beginning of the 11th century, that is, about the year 1002, we are
hindered from believing by the style of the ornamentation of this very
rich stuff. As a specimen of the Arabic loom in the 13th century it is
most valuable, and looks as if its designer had in his mind Persian
traditions controlled by Arabic ideas while he drew its pattern. A
remembrance of the celebrated Persian _Hom_, or sacred tree, which
separates both the griffins, the leopards, and the birds--seemingly
peacocks in one place, long-tailed parrots in another--was clearly
before him. The griffins are addorsed regardant and sketched with
spirit; so too are the leopards, which are collared, and like the
“papyonns,” or present East Indian “cheetahs,” of which mention
is made at No. 8288. Altogether this pattern, which is thrown off
with so much freedom, is among the most pleasing and effective in
the collection, and the thickness of its silken texture renders it
remarkable.
8234.
Piece of Purple Silk, double-dyed, the pattern formed of squares filled
in with a Greek cross amid conventional ornaments. Sicilian, 12th
century. 7½ inches by 9 inches.
The warp is of linen thread, the woof of silk, and as the two
materials have not taken the dye in the same degree, the ground is of
quite another tone from the pattern, which is, in a manner, fortunate,
as thus a better effect is produced.
Not for a moment can we look upon this piece as a specimen of real
imperial purple wrought at Byzantium for royal use, and so highly
spoken of by Anastasius Bibliothecarius, and called by him “blatthin,”
with the distinguishing adjunct of “holosericus,” or made entirely of
silk, and sometimes noticing it as “porphyreticum,” while enumerating
the gifts of rich silks bestowed upon the churches at Rome by
pontifical and imperial benefactors.
8235.
Piece of Yellow Silk, with pattern of circles enclosing griffins, the
interspaces filled in with hawks. Byzantine, 11th century. 12 inches by
10½ inches.
This well woven and thickly bodied stuff shows its Byzantine origin in
that style of ornamentation seen in the circles so characteristic of a
Greek hand, as may be found in the Byzantine MSS. of the period. What
makes this specimen somewhat remarkable, is the rare occurrence of
finding the birds and animals figured in lines of silver thread. Dr.
Bock tells us that the chasuble of Bishop Bernward, who died in the
11th century, is decorated with a similar design.
8236.
Piece of Silk, Tyrian purple, diapered with palmette pattern. Oriental,
11th century. 1 foot 4 inches by 8½ inches.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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