Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
The whole of the middle piece is of needlework, and figured with
sixteen figures, four-legged beasts in the body, and human in the
heads, all of which are seen, by the hair, to be female. All are
statant gardant or standing and looking full in the face of the
spectator. Eight of them are playing musical instruments, most of
which are stringed and harp-shaped, one a clarionet-like pipe, another
castanets, and two cymbals, and are human down to the waist; the other
eight seem meant for queens wearing crowns, and having the hair very
full, but reaching no further than the shoulders, while the minstrel
females show a long braid of dark brown hair falling all down the
back. The queens have wings, and are human only in head and neck;
the musical figures are wingless, and human as far as the waist. All
these monsters display large tails, which end in an open-mouthed head
like that of a fox, and are all noued. Each of these figures stands
within a square, which is studded at each corner with the curious
four-pointed love-knot, and in the ornamentation of its sides the
crescent is very conspicuous; besides which, upon the bodies of these
figures themselves numerous ring-like spots are studiously marked,
as if to show that the four-legged animal was a leopard. Grotesques
like those in this curious piece of embroidery abound in the MSS.
of the 14th century; and those cut in stone on the north and south
walls outside Adderbury Church, Oxon, bear a strong likeness to them.
These fictitious creatures, made up of a woman, a leopard--the beast
of prey, a fox--the emblem of craftiness and sly cunning, wielding
too the power of wealth and authority, shown in those regal heads,
and bringing those siren influences of music, love, and revelry into
action, lead to the belief that under such imagery there was once
hidden a symbolic meaning, which still remains to be found out, and
this embroidery may yield some help in such an interesting study.
All the figures are wrought on fine canvas in gold thread, and shaded
with silk thread in various colours, the ground being filled in, in
short stitch, with a bright-toned crimson silk that has kept its
colour admirably. The narrow tape with a gold ornament upon a crimson
ground, that encloses the square at each end of this liturgical
appliance, is very good, and perhaps of the 13th century, as well
as the many-coloured fringe of the 15th. There is no doubt this
maniple, for such it is, was made out of scraps of secular adornments
of various dates; and gives us remarkable examples of embroidery and
weaving at various periods. One end of it is figured in Dr. Bock’s
“Geschichte der Liturgischen Gewänder des Mittelalters,” 1 Band, 2
Lieferung, part vi.
8240, 8240A.
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