Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum — John Shaqi
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
Such was the superior quality of some gold thread that it was
known to the mediæval world under the name of the place wherein it
had been made. Thus we find a mention at one time of Cyprus gold
thread--“vestimentum embrowdatum cum aquilis de auro de Cipre;”[98]
later, of Venice gold thread--“for frenge of gold of Venys at vj_s._
the ounce;”[99] “one cope of unwaterd camlet laid with strokes of
Venis gold.”[100] What may have been their difference cannot now be
pointed out: perhaps the Cyprian thread was so much esteemed because
its somewhat broad shred of flat gold was wound about the hempen twist
beneath it so nicely as to have the smooth unbroken look of gold wire;
while the article from Venice showed everywhere the twisting of common
thread.
[97] Rot. Cancel. 56 Henrici III. Compot. Will. de Glouc.
[98] Mon. Anglic. ii. 7.
[99] Wardrobe Accounts of King Edward IV. p. 117, ed. N. H. Nicolas.
[100] Mon. Anglic. ii. 167.
As now, so of old,
SILKS HAD VARIOUS NAMES
given them, meaning either their kind of texture and dressing, their
colour and its several tints, the sort of design or pattern woven on
them, the country from which they were brought, or the use for which,
on particular occasions, they happened to be especially set apart.
All of these designations are of foreign growth; some sprang up in the
seventh and following centuries at Byzantium, and, not to be found in
classic writers, remain unknown to modern Greek scholars; some are
half Greek, half Latin, jumbled together; other some, borrowed from
the east, are so shortened, so badly and variously spelt, that their
Arabic or Persian derivation can be hardly recognized at present. Yet,
without some slight knowledge of them, we may not understand a great
deal belonging to trade, and the manners of the times glanced at by our
old writers; much less see the true meaning of many passages in our
mediæval English poetry.
Among the terms significative of the kind of web, or mode of getting up
some sorts of silk, we have
_Holosericum_, the whole texture of which, as its Greek-Latin compound
means to say, is warp and woof wholly pure silk: in a passage from
Lampridius, quoted before, p. xix., we learn that so early as the reign
of Alexander Severus, the difference between “vestes holosericæ,” and
“subsericæ,” was strongly marked, and from which we learn that
_Subsericum_ implied that such a texture was not entirely, but in
part--likely its woof--of silk.
Although the warp only happened to be of silk, while the woof was of
gold, still the tissue was often called “holosericum;” of the vestments
which Beda says[101] S. Gregory sent over here to S. Austin, one is
mentioned by a mediæval writer as “una casula oloserica purpurei
coloris aurea textura”--a chasuble all silk, of a purple colour, woven
with gold.[102] Examples of “holosericum” and “subsericum” abound in
this collection.
[101] Hist. Ecc. lib. i. c. 29.
[102] Bedæ Hist., ed. Smith, p. 691.
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