Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
As early as A.D. 1277 Exeter Cathedral reckoned among her vestments
several such; for instance, a cope of baudekin figured with small
two-headed eagles: “Capa baudekyn cum parvis aquilis, ij capita
habentibus;”[221] and our Henry III.’s brother, Richard the king
of Germany, gave to the same church a cope of black baudekin, with
eagles in gold figured on it: “Una capa de baudek, nigra cum aquilis
deauratis.”[222] Many other instances might be noticed all through
England.
[216] Asserius, De Rebus Gestis Ælfredi, ed. Wise, p. 33.
[217] Will. Malmes. Gesta Regum Anglorum, t. ii. p. 415, ed. Duffus
Hardy.
[218] Plates, 18, 20, 22.
[219] Quintus Curtius, Lib. III. cap. iii. p. 7.
[220] Ibid. Lib. IV. cap. xv. p. 72.
[221] Oliver, p. 299.
[222] Ibid.
As in architecture, sculpture, and painting, ancient and modern, so
IN WOVEN STUFFS THERE ARE STYLES NICELY DEFINED, AND EPOCHS EASILY
DISCERNIBLE.
Hitherto no attempt has been anywhere made to distribute olden silken
textiles into various schools, and as the present is the first and only
collection which has in any country been thrown open as yet to the
public, the occasion seems a fitting one to warrant such an endeavour
of classification.
With no other than the specimens here before us, we think we see them
fall into these several groups--Chinese, Persian, Byzantine, Oriental
or Indian, Syrian, Saracenic, Moresco-Spanish, Sicilian, Italian,
Flemish, British, and French.
_Chinese_ examples here are very few; but what they are, whether plain
or figured, they are beautiful in their own way. From all that we know
of the people, we are led to believe their own way two thousand years
ago is precisely theirs still, so that the web wrought by them this
year or two hundred years ago, like No. 1368, p. 75, would not differ
hardly in a line from their textiles two thousand years gone by, when
Dionysius Periegetes wrote that, the “Seres make precious figured
garments, resembling in colour the flowers of the field, and rivalling
in fineness the work of spiders.” In the stuffs, warp and woof are of
silk, and both of the best kinds.
_Persian_ textiles, even as we see them in this collection, must have
been for many centuries just as they were ever figured, and may be,
even now, described by the words of Quintus Curtius, with some little
allowance for those influences exercised upon the mind of the weaver by
his peculiar religious belief, which would not let the lowliest workman
forget the “homa,” or tree of life. When Marco Polo travelled through
those parts, in the thirteenth century, and our countryman, Sir John
Mandeville, a hundred years later, the old love for hunting wild beasts
still lived, and the princes of the country were as fond as ever of
training the cheetah, a kind of small lion or leopard, for the chase,
as we have noticed, p. 178.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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