Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
When the design is made up of various kinds of beasts and birds, real
or imaginary, with the sporting cheetah nicely spotted among them; and
the “homa” conspicuously set forth above all; sure may we be that the
web was wrought by Persians, and on most occasions the textile will be
found in all its parts to be woven from the richest materials.
As an illustration of the Persian type of style, No. 8233, p. 154, may
be taken as a specimen.
For trade purposes, and to make the textile pass in the European market
as from Persia, the manner of its loom was often copied by the Jewish
and the Christian weavers in Syria, as we shall have to notice just now.
_The Byzantine_ Greeks, for their textiles from the time when in the
sixth century they began to weave home-grown silk, made for themselves
a school of design which kept up in their drawing not a little of the
beauty, breadth, and flowing outline which had outlived among them
the days of heathenish art. Along with this a strong feeling of their
Christianity showed itself as well in many of the subjects which they
took out of holy writ, as in the smaller elements of ornamentation.
Figures, whether of the human form or of beasts, are given in a much
larger and bolder size than on any other ancient stuffs. Though there
be very few known specimens from the old looms of Constantinople, the
one here, No. 7036, p. 122, showing Samson wrestling with a lion, may
serve as a type. In the year 1295 old St. Paul’s Cathedral, here in
London, would seem to have possessed several splendid vestments made of
Byzantine silk, as we note in the samples to be named _infra_ under the
head of Damask.
The way in which those Greeks gave a pattern to the stuff intended more
especially for liturgical purposes is pointed out while speaking about
“Stauracin” and the “Gammadion,” a form of the cross with which they
powdered their silks; p. lii.
The world-wide fame of the Byzantine purple tint is attested by our
Gerald Barry, whose words we quote further on. As a sample of the
Byzantine loom in “diaspron,” or diapering, we would refer to No. 1239,
p. 26.
The specimens here from the Byzantine, and later Greek loom, are
not to be taken as by any means appropriate samples of its general
production. They are poor in both respects--material and, when
figured, design--as may be seen at pp. 27, 28, 33, 36, 123, 124, 126,
219, &c.
_Oriental_ ancient silks and textiles have their own distinctive marks.
From Marco Polo, who wandered much over the far east, some time during
the thirteenth century, we learn that the weaving there was done by
women who wrought in silk and gold, after a noble manner, beasts and
birds upon their webs:--“Le loro donne lavorano tutte cose a seta e ad
oro e a uccelli e a bestie nobilmente e lavorano di cortine ed altre
cose molto ricamente.”[223]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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