Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
While at war with the Byzantines, in the twelfth century, Roger, King
of Sicily, took Corinth, Thebes, and Athens, from each of which cities
he led away captives all the men and women he could find who knew how
to weave silks, and carried them to Palermo. To the Norman tiraz there,
these Grecian new comers brought fresh designs, which were adopted
sometimes wholly, at others but in part and mixed up with the older
Saracenic style, for silks wrought under the Normano-Sicilian dynasty.
In this second period of the island’s loom we discover what traces the
Byzantine school had impressed upon Sicilian silks, and helped so much
to alter the type of their design. On one silk, a grotesque mask amid
the graceful twinings of luxuriant foliage, such as might have been
then found by them upon many a fragment of old Greek sculpture, was the
pattern, as we witness, at No. 8241, p. 158; on another, a sovereign on
horseback wearing the royal crown, and carrying as he rides a hawk upon
his wrist--token both of the love for lordly sports at the period, and
the feudalism all over Italy and Christendom, shown in the piece, No.
8589, p. 223; on a third, No. 8234, p. 154, is the Greek cross, along
with a pattern much like the old netted or “de fundato” kind which we
have described, p. liii.
But Sicily’s third is quite her own peculiar style. At the end of the
thirteenth and beginning of the fourteenth century, she struck out of
herself into quite an unknown path for design. Without throwing aside
the old elements employed till then especially, all over the east,
and among the rest, by the Mahomedans, Sicily put along with them the
emblem of Christianity, the cross, in various forms, on some occasions
with the letter V. four times repeated, and so placed together as to
fall into the shape of this symbol, like what we find at No. 1245, p.
28; in other instances the cross is floriated, as at No. 1293, p. 47.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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