Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
We are not aware that this trick has ever been found out before, and it
was only by the use of a highly magnifying glass that we penetrated the
secret. Our suspicion was awakened by so often observing that the gold
had become quite black. Examples of this gilt vellum may be seen here,
at Nos. 7095, p. 140; 8590, p. 224; 8639, p. 244; &c.
When the Christian Spanish weavers lived beyond Saracenic control, they
filled their designs with beasts, birds, and flowers; but even then the
old Spanish fine tone of crimson is rather striking in their webs, as
is evidenced in the beautiful piece of diaper, No. 1336, p. 64.
Spanish velvets--and they were mostly wrought in Andalusia--are
remarkably fine and conspicuous both for their deep soft pile, and
their glowing ruby tones; but when woven after the manner of velvet
upon velvet, are very precious: a good specimen of rich texture, and
mellow colouring is furnished by the chasuble at No. 1375, p. 81.
The _Sicilian_ school strongly marked the wide differences between
itself and all the others which had lived before; and the history of
its loom is as interesting as it is varied.
The first to teach the natives of Sicily the use of cotton for their
garments, and how to rear the silkworm and spin its silk, were, as
it would seem, the Mahomedans, who, in coming over from Africa,
brought along with them, besides the art of weaving silken textiles,
a knowledge of the fauna of that vast continent--its giraffes, its
antelopes, its gazelles, its lions, its elephants. These Mussulmans
told them, too, of the parrots of India and the hunting sort of
lion,--the cheetahs, that were found in Asia; and when the stuff had to
be wrought for European wear, imaged both beast and bird upon the web,
at the same time that they wove a word in Arabic, of greeting to be
read among the flowers. Like all other Saracens, those in Sicily loved
to mingle gold in their tissues; and, to spare the silk, cotton thread
was not unfrequently worked up in the warp. When, therefore, we meet
with beasts taken from the fauna of Africa, such, especially, as the
giraffe, and the several classes of the antelope family--in particular
the gazelle--with, somewhere about, an Arabic motto--and part of the
pattern wrought in gold, which, at first poor and thin, is now become
black, as well as cotton in the warp, we may fairly take the specimen
as a piece of Sicily’s work in its first period of weaving, all so
Saracenic to the eye. Even when that Moslem nation had been driven out
by the Normans, if many of its people did not stay as workmen in silk
at Palermo, yet they left their teachings in weaving and design behind
them, and their practices were, years afterwards, still followed.
Now we reach Sicily’s second epoch.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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