Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
The Sicilians showed their strong affection for certain plants and
flowers. On a great many of the silks in this collection, from
Palermitan looms, we see figured upon a tawny-coloured grounding,
beautifully drawn foliage in green; which, on a nearer inspection,
bears the likeness of parsley, so curled, crispy and serrated are its
leaves. Besides their cherished parsley along with the vine-leaf for
foliage, they had their especial favourite among flowers; and it is the
centaurea cyanus, our corn blue-bottle, shown among others in No. 1283,
&c. p. 43, No. 1291, p. 47, No. 1308, p. 53.
Another peculiarity of theirs is the introduction of the letter U,
repeated so as at times to mark the feathering upon the tails of birds;
at others, to fall into the shape of an O, as we pointed out at pp. 40,
225, 227, 228.
Whether it was that, like our own Richard I., crusaders in after times
often made Sicily the halting spot on their way to the Holy Land, or
that knights crowded there for other purposes, and thus dazzled the
eyes of the islanders with the bravery of their armorial bearings,
figured on their cyclases and pennons, their flags and shields, certain
is it that these Sicilians were particularly given to introduce a deal
of heraldic charges--wyverns, eagles, lions rampant, and griffins--into
their designs; and the very numerous occasions in which such elements
of blazoning come in, are very noticeable, so that one of the features
belonging to the Sicilian loom in its third period, is that, bating
tinctures, it is so decidedly heraldic.
Not the last among the peculiarities of the third period in the
Sicilian school is the use, for many of its stuffs, of two certain
colours--murrey, for the ground, and a bright green for the pattern.
When the fawn-coloured ground is gracefully sprinkled with parsley
leaves, and nicely trailed with branches of the vine, and shows beasts
and birds disporting themselves between the boughs of lively joyous
green; the effect is cheerful, as may be witnessed in those specimens
No. 8594, p. 226, No. 8602, p. 229, No. 8607, p. 231, Nos. 8609, 8610,
p. 232, all of which so admirably exemplify the style.
All their beauty and happiness of invention, set forth by bold, free,
spirited drawing, were bestowed, if not thrown away, too often upon
stuffs of a very poor inferior quality, in which the gold, if not
actually base, was always scanty, and a good deal of cotton was sure to
be found wrought up along with the silk.
Though Palermo was, without doubt, the great workshop for weaving
Sicilian silks, that trade used to be carried on not only in other
cities of the island, but reached towns like Reggio and other such in
Magna Græcia, northward up to Naples. We think that, as far as the two
Sicilies are concerned, the growth of the cotton plant always went
along with the rearing of the silkworm. Of the main-land loom we would
specify No. 8256, p. 163, No. 8634, p. 242, No. 8638, p. 243.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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