Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
In olden times, the Egyptians wove in an upright loom, and beginning
at top so as to weave downwards, sat at their work. In Palestine the
weaver had an upright loom too, but beginning at bottom and working
upwards, was obliged to stand. During the mediæval period the loom,
here at least, was horizontal, as is shown by the one figured in that
gorgeously illuminated Bedford Book of Hours, fol. 32, at which the
Blessed Virgin Mary is seated weaving curtains for the temple.
As samples of one of the several kinds of work wrought by our nuns
and mynchens, as well as English ladies, we refer to Nos. 1233, p.
24, 1256, p. 33, 1270, p. 38, demonstrating the ability of their
handicraft as well as elegance in design during the thirteenth century.
For specimens of the commoner sorts of silken textiles and of wider
breadth, which began to be woven in this country under Edward III.,
it would be as hard as hazardous to direct the reader. Very recent
examples of all sorts--velvets among the rest--may be found in the
Brooke collection. To some students the piece of Old English printed
chintz, No. 1622, p. 84, will not be without an interest.
For the finer sort of linen napery, Eylisham or Ailesham in
Lincolnshire was famous during the fourteenth century. Exeter
cathedral, A.D. 1327, had “unum manutergium de Eylisham”--a hand towel
of Ailesham cloth.[239]
Our coarser native textiles in wool, in thread or in both, woven
together, forming a stuff called “burel,” made of which St. Paul’s
London, A.D. 1295, had a light blue chasuble;[240] and Exeter
cathedral, A.D. 1277, a long pall;[241] all sorts, in fine, of heavier
work, were wrought in our monasteries for men. By their rule the
Benedictine monks, and all their offsets, were bound to give a certain
number of hours every week-day to hand work, either at home or in the
field.[242]
Weeping over the wars and strife in England during the year 1265 and
the woes of the people, our Matthew of Westminster sums up, among our
losses, the fall in our trade of woollen stuffs, with which we used
to supply the world. O Anglia olim gloriosa ... licet maris angustata
littoribus ... tibi tamen per orbem benedixerunt omnium latera nationum
de tuis ovium velleribus calefacta.[243]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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