Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
The weaving in this country of woollen cloth, as a staple branch of
trade, is older than some are willing to believe. Of the monks at
Bath abbey we are told by a late writer, “the shuttle and the loom
employed their attention, (about the middle of the fourteenth century,)
and under their active auspices the weaving of woollen cloth (which
made its appearance in England about the year 1330, and received the
sanction of an Act of Parliament in 1337) was introduced, established,
and brought to such perfection at Bath as rendered this city one of the
most considerable in the west of England for this manufacture.”[244]
Worcester cloth, which was of a fine quality, was so good, that by
a chapter of the Benedictine Order, held A.D. 1422, at Westminster
Abbey, it was forbidden to be worn by the monks, and declared smart
enough for military men.[245] Norwich, too, wove stuffs that were
in demand for costly household furniture, for, A.D. 1394, Sir John
Cobham bequeathed to his friends “a bed of Norwich stuff embroidered
with butterflies.”[246] In one of the chapels at Durham Priory there
were four blue cushions of Norwich work.[247] Worsted, a town in
Norfolk, by a new method of its own for the carding of the wool with
combs of iron well heated, and then twisting the thread harder than
usual in the spinning, enabled our weavers to produce a woollen stuff
of a fine peculiar quality, to which the name itself of worsted was
immediately given. Unto such a high repute did the new web grow that
liturgical raiment and domestic furniture of the choicest sorts were
made out of it; Exeter cathedral, among its chasubles, had several
“de nigro worsted” in cloth of gold. Elizabeth de Bohun, A.D. 1356,
bequeathed to her daughter the Countess of Arundel “a bed of red
worsted embroidered;”[248] and Joane Lady Bergavenny leaves to John of
Ormond “a bed of cloth of gold with lebardes, with those cushions and
tapettes of my best red worsted,”[249] &c. Of the sixteen standards of
worsted entailed with the bear and a chain which floated aloft in the
ship of Beauchamp Earl of Warwick, we have spoken before (p. xliii.)
In the “Fabric Rolls of York Minster” vestments made of worsted--there
variously spelt “worsett,”[250] and “woryst”[251]--are enumerated.
[239] Oliver, p. 314.
[240] Dugdale’s St. Paul’s, p. 323.
[241] Oliver, p. 298.
[242] Reg. S. Ben. c. xlviii. De Opere Manuum quotidiano, p. 129; c.
lvii. De Artificibus Monasterii, p. 131; ed. Brockie, t. i. “Lena”
is the mediæval Latin for a bed coverlet.
[243] Flores Histor. p. 396. Frankfort, A.D. 1601.
[244] Monasticon Anglicanum, t. ii. p. 259.
[245] Benedict. in Anglia, ed. Reyner, App. p. 165.
[246] Testamenta Vetusta, ed. Nicolas, t. i. p. 136.
[247] Hist. Dunelm. Scriptores Tres. Append. p. cclxxxvi.
[248] Testamenta Vetusta, i. 61.
[249] Ibid. p. 227.
[250] Pp. 301, 305.
[251] P. 302.
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