Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
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Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
_Irish_ cloth, white and red, in the reign of John, A.D. 1213, was much
used in England; and in the household expenses of Swinford, bishop of
Hereford, A.D. 1290, an item occurs of Irish cloth for lining.[252]
But our weavers knew how to throw off from their looms, artistically
designed and well-figured webs; in the “Wardrobe Accounts” of our
Edward II. we read this item: “to a mercer of London for a green
hanging of wool wove with figures of kings and earls upon it, for the
king’s service in his hall on solemn feasts at London.”[253] Such
“salles,” as they were called in France, and “hullings,” or rather
“hallings,” the name they went under here, were much valued abroad, and
in common use at home: under the head of “Salles d’Angleterre,” among
the articles of costly furniture belonging to Charles V. of France,
A.D. 1364, who began his reign some forty years after our Edward
II.’s death, one set of such hangings is thus put down: “une salle
d’Angleterre vermeille brodée d’azur, et est la bordeure à vignettes et
le dedens de lyons, d’aigles et de lyepars,” quoted from the MS. No.
8356, in the Imperial Library, Paris, by Michel;[254] while here in
England, Richard Earl of Arundel, A.D. 1392, willed to his dear wife
“the hangings of the hall which was lately made in London, of blue
tapestry with red roses with the arms of my sons,”[255] &c.; and Lady
Bergavenny, after bequeathing her hullying of black, red, and green, to
one friend, to another left her best stained hall.[256]
[252] Ed. Web. for the Camden Society, p. 193, t. i.
[253] Archæologia, t. xxvi. p. 344.
[254] Tom. i. p. 49.
[255] Test. Vetust. t. i. p. 130.
[256] Ibid. pp. 228, 229.
_Flemish_ textiles, at least of the less ambitious kinds, such as
napery and woollens, were much esteemed centuries ago, and our
countryman, Matthew of Westminster, says of Flanders, that from the
material--perhaps wool--which we sent her, she sent us back those
precious garments she wove.[257]
Though industrious everywhere within her limits, some of her towns
stood foremost for certain kinds of stuff, and Bruges became in
the latter end of the fifteenth century conspicuous for its silken
textiles. Here in England, the satins of Bruges were in great use
for church garments; in Haconbie church, A.D. 1566, was “one white
vestmente of Bridges satten repte in peces and a clothe made thereof
to hange before our pulpitt;”[258] and, A.D. 1520, York cathedral had
“a vestment of balkyn (baudekin) with a crosse of green satten in
bryges.”[259]
Her damask silks were equally in demand; and the specimens here
will interest the reader. Nos. 8318, p. 190, 8332, p. 197, show the
ability of the Bruges loom, while the then favourite pattern with the
pomegranate in it, betrays the likings of the Spaniards, at that time
the rulers of the country, for this token of their beloved Isabella’s
reconquered Granada. No. 8319, p. 191, is another sample of Flemish
weaving, rich in its gold, and full of beauty in design.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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