Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
[274] Yorkshire Wills. Part i. p. 174.
_Fustian_, of which two of its forms we still have in velveteen and
corduroy, was originally wove at Fustat, on the Nile, with a warp of
linen thread and a woof of thick cotton, which was so twilled and cut
that it showed on one side a thick but low pile; and the web so managed
took its name of Fustian from that Egyptian city. At what period it was
invented we do not rightly know, but we are well aware it must have
been brought to this country before the Normans coming hither, for our
Anglo-Saxon countryman, St. Stephen Harding, when a Cistercian abbot
and an old man, _circ._ A.D. 1114, forbade chasubles in his church to
be made of anything but fustian or plain linen: “neque casulas nisi
de fustaneo vel lino sine pallio aureo vel argenteo,” &c.[275] The
austerity of his rule reached even the ornament of the church. From
such a prohibition we are not to draw as a conclusion that fustian
was at the time a mean material; quite the contrary, it was a seemly
textile. Years afterwards, in the fourteenth century, Chaucer tells us
of his knight:--
Of fustian he wered a gepon.[276]
Fustian, so near akin to velvet, is more especially noticed along with
what is said upon that fine textile.
In the fifteenth century Naples had a repute for weaving fustians, but
our English churchwardens, not being learned in geography, made some
laughable bad spelling of this, like some other continental stuffs:
“Fuschan in appules,” for fustian from Naples, is droll; yet droller
still is “mustyrd devells,” for a cloth made in France at a town
called Mustrevilliers.
[275] Mon. Anglic. ed. Dugdale, v. 225.
[276] The Prologue, Poems, ed. Nicolas, ii. 3.
_Muslin_, as it is now throughout the world, so from the earliest
antiquity has been everywhere in Asia in favourite use, both as an
article of dress and as furniture. Its cloud-like thinness, its
lightness, were, as they still are to some Asiatics, not the only
charms belonging to this stuff: it was esteemed equally as much for
the taste in which stripes of gold had been woven in its warp. As we
learn from the travels of Marco Polo, the further all wayfarers in Asia
wandered among its eastern nations, the higher they found the point of
excellence which had been reached by those people in weaving silk and
gold into splendid fabrics. If the silkworm lived, nay, thrived there,
the cotton plant was in its home, its birth-place, in those regions.
Where stood Nineveh Mosul stands now.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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